By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
History
By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
At half-past six this morning there was a great rapping and thumping
on our door, and Captain Scruggs cried, “If you want to see the
Faralleeones you’d better come on deck.” Ten minutes later we emerged
from the companion-way, but at first could see nothing at all for
a chilly fog that lay upon the water, which had, during the night,
changed to the muddy green of soundings. By dint of perseverance,
though, we saw a large, dark mass loom gradually up until we could
plainly discern the brown, sterile cones of the Farallones, which lie
about twenty-five miles west of San Francisco Heads. Many persons have
been puzzled to know why it is that the majority of the Pacific coast
population pronounce the word as though it was spelled Fa-ra-lee-owns.
The explanation of it seems to me to be a corruption of the Spanish
pronunciation Fa-ralyo-nes, as, of course, the double l in that
language has the sound of y. The same can be said of Mollendo, an
important Peruvian port in 17° south; for Californians who are not
especially erudite call the place Mol-ly-en-do, from the Spanish
Mol-yen-do. It will be perceived how readily careless persons could
fall into the way of putting an extra syllable in names which contain
the double l, from hearing Mexicans and South Americans pronounce the
words, which, of course, they do correctly.
As we had packed all of our valises, etc., the night before, there was
nothing for us to do but to anticipate with pleasurable excitement
the entrance into the Golden Gate, for the captain assured us that by
eleven o’clock there wouldn’t be a vestige of fog left; this being a
peculiarity of the coast climate. Sure enough, at ten the mists began
to disperse and a bright glare overhead indicated an impending flood of
sunshine.
At this moment we heard several sharp whistles ahead, and a tow-boat
passed close to us in another minute, and then rounding to, ranged up
alongside. How odd a sensation it is to see a new face again after
an absence of four months from the retreats of men! Day after day,
week after week, we have watched Mr. Goggins relieve Mr. Rarx, and
Broadhead relieve Paddy, so steadily that we almost forgot that there
was any one else in existence; and when we perceived the captain of
the tug-boat standing in the pilot-house in a glistening “biled” shirt
and store clothes and a polish on his brown shoes that quite dazzled
us, we gazed upon him fascinated, for he was the biggest dude we had
seen in nineteen weeks. And how uncouth the ship’s company looked
when contrasted with even the tow-boat’s crew! However, we were soon
brought to from our reveries by a large bundle of newspapers that the
tug’s skipper hove on board; and who can depict the joy of that hour,
during which we pored over the journals, marvelling at the commonplace
allusions to momentous events which had been almost forgotten by the
daily reader?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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