By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
History
By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
How odd it is to meet an acquaintance away down here near the end
of Brazil! The last time that we saw the “Judas Dowes” she lay on
the opposite side of the pier from the “Higgins,” both ships having
just come in from sea; and lo! we renew our intimacy far down here,
thousands of miles from home, below the southern tropic. And a sort
of mutual good-fellowship springs up between us, for are we both not
going to fling down the gauntlet to the dreadful Horn in the darkness
and gloom of midwinter? Everything is so very smooth and sunny and
cheerful here at present, that it is hard to believe that there are, no
doubt, at this moment, giant four-masters struggling in the grip of an
Antarctic sou’wester, hove to, with a tarpaulin in the after-rigging,
or driving before it for their lives, buried to the rails in those
great Cape Horn surges which roll so grandly onward in their endless
journey around the globe.
Turning, then, from such violent scenes, it is doubly pleasant to
be wafted thus along over a motionless sea, rippled by the fresh
northeasterly breeze that blows us over two hundred miles of water
every day. It is warm, too, for this latitude at this season, 77°
at noon, for the sun to-day reached the most northerly point of his
declination, and at four o’clock this morning, at Greenwich, he entered
the constellation of Cancer, ushering in the first day of the southern
winter.
Our skipper has formed the very obnoxious habit of immersing beer and
Apollinaris bottles in the galvanized iron bucket which holds our
drinking-water in the pantry, for the purpose of cooling them off; so
that we were shocked one day to observe several labels floating about
in the water, having added to it glue and other equally unpleasant
foreign substances. Fortunately, the weather will soon be cold now,
which will, I hope, put an end to these objectionable proceedings.
Every Sunday thus far Captain Scruggs has blossomed out in a white
“biled” shirt, with a standing collar turned over in front, by reason
of which he suffers torments throughout that day, until about three
in the afternoon, when indications of a sudden metamorphosis begin to
appear. First he begins to move restlessly in his chair, elevates and
depresses his chin with great force, inserts his hand inside the band
and tugs away at it, and finally, unable to stand it any longer, off
comes the offending collar with a great wrench, while he passionately
nods and revolves his massive head, to free himself of all restraint,
as though he had been in a pillory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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