By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian JournalDinning, Hector
History
By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian Journal
Dinning, Hector
World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives, Australian
A right good sight in Alexandria is the broad, mansion-skirted
promenade of the Rue Rosette on a Sunday morning. The French "quality"
of the city seems to reside there, and the best of it all is to watch
the dainty little French girls going to Mass in the pleasant sunshine.
They promenade that street in groups for two or three hours until
all are retired into the residences for the mid-day meal. There is a
delicacy of beauty in these little girls that affects one strangely
after eight months from the haunt of woman and child.
The Rue Rosette in the morning, or the Quai Promenade Abbas II.,
fronting the lovely Crescent of Port Est: this is the place to laze
away a morning, hanging over the broad stone wall on the water's edge,
or lounging in the open cafés behind the smooth road. There is that
generous expanse of glittering sea heaving gently between the horns
of the bay. The Fort Kait Bey lies brown on the western lip and Fort
Sel Sileh on the east, half embracing the blue. A rich mellow colour
they have, and a richer blue it is for that. And the white piles of
Alexandria thrust up all about the bay's brink, fringing the clear
basin with a sort of stately splendour. It's fine, too, the comfortable
laziness of the red-tarbushed fishermen on the wall, smoking and
fooling away the morning in the soft landbreeze blowing sweet off the
city. The only movement is with the Arab boys racing along the parapet
or the quiet motion of the fishing-smacks lying off. An old Russian
aristocrat is taking the air in a gharry; the nursemaids are out with
the babes; the well-dressed unemployed Egyptians (they throng the city)
are sipping their morning coffee in the glass-walled cafés. Alexandria
often gives the impression--except in the Square--that there are no
livings to be made. There is a luxurious spirit of idleness abroad in
the place, which appears on the balconies of the houses, in the cafés,
in the carriages of the suburbs. The idle rich--who are largely not
the vulgar rich--are here, whole battalions of them. There is nothing
like the studied idleness of Edinburgh Town or of Naples--nor of Cairo.
There are plutocrats who know how to dress and how to take their ease
without boredom, and to pursue pleasure without apparent _ennui_. All
these things (you feel) have they observed from their youth up; they
practise none of them crudely. They are well schooled in a placid and
luxurious enjoyment of life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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