By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian JournalDinning, Hector
History
By-ways on Service: Notes from an Australian Journal
Dinning, Hector
World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives, Australian
The map shows Port Said dumped at the end of a lean streak of sand
flanking the Canal. For half the distance from Ismailia the train
sweeps along this tract. There is the Canal on your right, rich-blue
between its walled banks and foiled by the brown heat-hazed world
east; and on your left are the interminable shallows exuding the stink
of rank salt, and traversed drearily by fishing-craft. Port Said at
the approach much resembles Alexandria: the same brown, toppling
irregularity, and the multitude of masts protruding.
The Canal at its city mouth is fretted with rectangular berthing-basins
crammed with craft, very busy and noisy. A network of railways threads
the quays. The green-domed Canal company's offices tower above the
smoke and din, redeeming them; they make a noble pile. All the shipping
is on the west bank; the east is bare, but for some sombre stone houses
and a Red Cross hospital in the sand, and a self-contained Armenian
refugee camp south of the city-level. The Canal mouth is stuffed with
cruisers and commercial ships anchored between the two stalwart stone
sea-walls. They protrude two miles into the Mediterranean, keeping the
channel. That on the west is crowned by the de Lesseps monument.
The lean sand-neck that you traversed by rail from Ismailia takes a
right-angled turn at the head of the de Lesseps mole and runs seven
miles west into the Mediterranean. It begins with a fine residential
quarter standing behind the firm beach and the horde of bathing-boxes;
west still, and safely segregated from the decency of the city, is the
seething Arab quarter, of enormous dimensions and smelling to heaven;
and beyond Arab Town the promontory bears the city's burial-ground,
lying desolate in the sand-neck; and then peters out dismally in the
shallows.
A new-comer takes in the straightforward geographical scheme of the
place at a glance. It's a small city, lying, as it does, midway on the
sea-road linking the East and West worlds. Its atmosphere is intensive
rather than extensive. It is highly charged with busyness. The little
area of the city is thickly peopled with every nationality (excepting
German and Austrian), promenading or sitting at the open cafés. The
shipping is congested to a degree that is apparently unwieldy. And the
period of war has taken nothing from the atmosphere of bustle. This is
the main supply base for the whole of the Canal defences and for a good
deal of Upper Egypt too. An enormous levy is made daily on railroad and
on Canal barges for transport of Army supplies. The supply depôt has
commandeered half the Quay space and receives and disgorges day and
night without intermission.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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