Leaving the Convent, which is at the western termination of the mountain,
we proceeded along the top of its main ridge to the opposite extremity,
the _Mohhrakah_, undoubtedly the locality of Elijah's miraculous
sacrifice in presence of King Ahab with the priests of Baal and of the
groves; thence we returned to encamp for a time at the cleanly Druse
village of _'Esfia_; after which a few hours' ride westwards led us by
the village of _Daliet el Carmel_, {238} also inhabited by Druses, to the
romantic _'Ain ez Zera'ah_ and over the sites of ruined places,
_Doomeen_, _Shelaleh_, and _Lubieh_, where the hewn stones lying
scattered over the ground were indications of much better buildings than
those of modern villages.
Then down the long and wearisome descent to _Teeri_ on the sea-coast
south of Caiffa.
For topographical purposes chiefly, let me give an outline of a few other
journeys made about the same neighbourhood.
1. FROM SAFED TO CARMEL.
_Sept._ 1846.
Going in the direction of the sea, that is, from Naphtali downwards into
Zebulon, we crossed westwards the _Jebel Rama_, a long hilly range ending
in the south at Rama, and richly wooded, but to our surprise there were
numerous fires left by the people to consume trees and large shrubs at
discretion, for the making of charcoal. Fortunately for us there was no
wind blowing, but several times as the fiery ashes had been drifted upon
the road, our horses had no choice but to step into them. On that
eminence I picked up specimens of Geodes which abound there, being lumps
resembling fruits outside, but when broken found to be a crust of bright
spar, and hollow in the centre; some of these were remarkably large. The
hills were fragrant with wild herbs, and the views from them delightful.
After _Semwan_ we strayed from the right road and got to _Shemuata_,
where we procured a guide to conduct us in the direction of Carmel; he
undertook to conduct us as far as _Abu 'Atabeh_, from which Carmel would
be visible, and the distance equal either to Acre or to Caiffa. From the
heights we descended to _Ekwikat_, and there found ourselves too tired to
get further that night.
In the morning we passed the _Bahhjah_, which had been the luxurious
summer residence of Abdallah Pasha, but was in a ruinous condition, and
came to _Abu 'Atabeh_, which is not a village but a collection of a few
houses, perhaps formerly some outlying dwellings belonging to the
Bahhjah. Here was a fountain, and a small aqueduct for conveying water
to gardens.
Crossed the _Naaman_ river, anciently named the _Belus_, on the banks of
which, according to Pliny, the primitive idea of glass-making was
discovered by accident. Along the beach we came to the Mokatta' or
Kishon, found it deep for fording, but got over to Caiffa, and mounted to
the Convent of Carmel.
2. NAZARETH TOWARDS ACRE.
_Oct._ 1849.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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