Forwards we marched with light spirits, through dense woods, varied by
the occasional clearings, which are called "the rides" in old English
forests, and sometimes we drew near to snug villages, or got glimpses of
such, by the names of _Teereh_, _Hhaneen_, and _'Ain Nebel_; the latter
at two hours from Tibneen; the people there are Christian, and they
cultivate silk and tobacco. In some places we observed ancient
sarcophagi, hewn into solid rock without being entirely detached, they
had therefore been left unfinished, though partly ornamented.
On a ground rising opposite to us I saw the screw of a large press,
standing out of the field; this I was told is used for extracting resin
from the red berries of terebinth trees for domestic lamp-lighting--a
circumstance which of itself bespeaks the prevalence of woodland round
about, and is a variation from the practice of that unhappy thin
population on the plain of Esdraelon, who are obliged to use castor-oil
for the same purpose, because the _palma Christi_ plants which produce
the oil are of less value to Bedaween marauders than olive-trees would
be, and damage done to them is of less importance than it would be among
the latter.
Arrived at _Rumaish_, the Shaikh rode up to his village while we awaited
him under the branches of an old oak overshadowing the road. Rumaish is
a neat little place, but, like almost every village throughout Palestine,
oppressed by the heavy debts incurred with the forestallers of their
produce (generally Europeans) in the seaport towns.
Our friend returned with another horseman, and three men on foot, all
armed with guns, as our future way lay through a Druse neighbourhood.
These men for our escort were Maronite Christians, and they showered upon
me abundant salutations, expressing their satisfaction at the
circumstance of a Christian (myself) being treated with such
distinguished consideration in Tibneen Castle, and concluding with the
hope that I would visit them yearly, in order to give countenance to
poor, depressed Christianity. The two priests of the village had desired
to come out and greet me, but their people had persuaded them that the
distance was too great for their walking in the sun--near mid-day in
July.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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