Among the evergreens, and the gall-oaks, and karoobah-trees, our path
often became very narrow--sometimes subsiding into sunless hollows, then
mounting afresh into a chequered brilliancy--but always passing between
woods of dark and glossy foliage. At one place was a pretty spring of
water, where one of the party halted to drink while the rest proceeded.
On finding him fail to come up with us, a horseman and two footmen were
despatched in search. Their shouts gave animation to the scene, but
gradually became fainter as the distance between us increased.
The whole of the day's journey hitherto was remarkable for absence of
human population.
Came to _Herfaish_, a Druse village, in the very heart of the forest, but
passed on, still toiling in the hot sunshine. Occasionally the paths
were so rocky that we had to dismount and lead the horses.
It was evident from the deportment and conversation of our guides, that
whenever Christians (who in that neighbourhood are all Maronites) enter
that division of the forest where the Druses of Herfaish prevail they
find it necessary to travel in companies and armed. Fortunately we
encountered none of the fanatics of Tarsheehhah. The escort told me that
they themselves only became acquainted with these cross roads in the
direction of Nazareth by means of their journeys thither at the
ecclesiastical festivals of Easter, Christmas, etc.
At this hot season there were not many flowers to be noticed, beyond some
varieties of salvia, yellow broom, bright-coloured thistles, the pink
flax, blackberry blossoms, and one kind of heath, together with some
plants unknown to me.
The trees were not of large dimensions, but mostly evergreen and of slow
growth; many were very wide-spreading, and all dense enough to afford
good shelter from either sun or rain.
After six hours and a half of uninterrupted forest we arrived at a small
trickling spring called _'Ain Noom_, when large trees began to give place
to shrubs and underwood, and human inhabitants again cheered the sight,
they bringing cattle to the water for drinking.
At _Bait Jan_ we were overtaken by the missing member of our party. At
this place there is considerable vine cultivation. Very soon afterwards
we were suddenly upon the brow of a deep descent--sheer steep down to the
plain of _Battoof_, and the prospect from that spot was amazing, not only
beyond expectation, for we had not expected any remarkable scene to come
in our way, but beyond all previous experience.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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