Leaving the Hebron road at _'Ain Dirweh_, we ascended the lofty hill to
the little village and weli of _Nebi Yunas_, (Prophet Jonah,) which is so
conspicuous an object far away in every direction,--the minaret which
rises from the building giving it very much the appearance of a rural
church in Europe. Thence through well-cultivated fields of wheat and
barley,--green at that season,--towards the village of _Beni Naim_; but
at quarter of the intermediate distance, passed considerable remains of
good masonry, named Khirbet _Bait Ainoon_, (ruins of Beth Enon.) At
_Beni Naim_ is the reputed sepulchre of the Prophet Lot, according to the
Moslems; that of his daughters being on an opposite hill at no great
distance. This village commands a grand prospect of the Dead Sea,
although there is no view of the kind from all the country around. Is
not this the place whence Abraham, after the departure of the angels, saw
the smoke of Sodom and Gomorrah rising as the smoke of a furnace? (Gen.
xix. 27, 28.)
Here was a travelling durweesh, fantastically dressed, amusing the
peasants by dancing and cracking a long whip; while a lad accompanying
him thumped a large drum,--both the thonged whip and the large drum being
rare objects in that country.
In a quarter of an hour we terminated our short day's journey (about six
hours and a half) in a meadow of long green grass. The site is called
_Beerain_, from the two wells there. Selameh, the brother of the Arab
chief, with several of his people, were awaiting our arrival; and they
were to lead us forward in the morning.
_April_ 2.--My right knee was much swollen from the strain of a sinew,
caused by an unexpected step down a bank taken by my horse when near
_Hhalhhool_, on the road from Jerusalem; consequently, feeling feverish,
and with a headache all night, I was not soothed by the camels groaning,
quarrelling, or champing their food close to my tent.
In the morning we made our bargain with Selameh, for the hire of camels,
the escort, etc. The captain and I, with my attendants, were to ride our
horses in the desert,--taking camels to carry an extra supply of water
for them.
We started, but in a very short time became disgusted at the slow
travelling of our caravan, as we were compelled to moderate the pace of
our riding to suit the leisurely tread of the camels. Selameh bestrode a
very young colt of the K'baishi race; but I rated my pony, of the Jilfi
stock, still higher than his.
The wide expanse before us was sprinkled with wild flowers, including the
yellow furze, (I have beside me, while writing this, a bunch of the same,
of English growth;) and the ret'm, or juniper, seven or eight feet in
height, covered with white blossom, the fragrance of which resembled, or,
if possible, was an improvement upon, the smell of a bean-field in
flower.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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