It is not my design to recount in detail the marvels of the place,--this
has been done by Laborde, Lord Lindsay, Wilson, and Robinson,--but just
to say, that having with me the small edition of Laborde and some
manuscript notes extracted from other books, by their help I saw most of
what was to be seen. I wandered through streets of the middle town;
surveyed and entered palaces hewn into crimson rocks; sat reading on the
solid benches of the theatre, and walked along its stage; then gazed with
unwearied admiration on the beautiful Khazneh, its delicate tints and
graceful proportions, and went to rest upon a green bank opposite to it,
with a running stream at my feet, bordered by gorgeous oleanders, where I
chatted with some wild Arabs arriving from the south. Such a harmony of
ruddy tints, from the darkest buds of the oleander, through gradations on
the rocks, to the most delicate pink, was truly a feast of nature for the
eyes.
These are incidents never to be forgotten, and the memory of them is
unspeakably charming. I made a few rough sketches; but it may be
sufficient here to give only a specimen of the capitals of columns that
are peculiar to Petra.
[Picture: Capital of column]
During the afternoon the thermometer stood inside the tent at 95 degrees
Fahrenheit.
The captain, my companion, went alone to explore the chasm called the
_Sik_, as my slight sprain, after being almost forgotten during the
journey, had become painful again from the effects of climbing upon Mount
Hor.
But I had come to Petra for business; and the indigenous peasantry of
Wadi Moosa were gathering around our tents from different directions.
They had not been prepared for the reception of guests arriving from the
north, _i.e._, Jerusalem, as travellers usually come from 'Akabah or
Sinai, through Nukh'l.
Our Arabs, both Jehaleen and some strangers, set to making themselves
comfortable. There arrived a large body of the Fellahheen, headed by
Shaikh Suliman es Said, a ragged and ugly crew, he as dirty as the rest,
but strutting about in a robe of bright scarlet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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