The air was very warm all night, with no freshening dew, and the sound of
slow, rippling water on the strand, during the still starlight hours, was
one to which our ears had not been of late accustomed.
The Arab figures and conversation round the watch-fire were romantic
enough. Thermometer at eight P.M., 90.5 degrees Fahrenheit.
_April_ 10_th_.--Sunrise, Fahrenheit 70.25 degrees. In taking this last
note of the thermometer at sunrise, I may observe that the marking of it
at that moment gives but a feeble idea of the heat that we experienced
during the days' marches throughout this excursion,--the temperature
rapidly increased after sunrise, and at later hours within the confined
hollows, such as Petra and the basin of the Dead Sea, rose to that of (I
suppose) an Indian climate--but above all the effects of heat was that
produced by the weight of atmospheric pressure at probably the lowest
position in the whole surface of the globe: about 1300 feet below the
Mediterranean.
Before six o'clock we were on the march, over broken and precipitous
rocky paths, on which the progress was slow and toilsome. Then down
again upon the beach. I am sure that if the Dead Sea were already
covering the ground that it now does, before the time of Chedorlaomer,
the "four kings against five" could not possibly have mustered or
manoeuvred their armies on any side or place between the mountains on
each side of the water. {332} At a quarter past seven the thermometer
stood at 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
There is always a close, heavy heat in this depressed region, inducing
profuse perspiration.
At ten minutes past nine we were at the spot where the great eastern
peninsula projects nearest to us, having in view the two extremities,
north-east and south-west, now named on the maps, the former as Point
Costigan, after the unfortunate explorer of 1835, and the latter, Point
Molyneux, after my friend, the lieutenant of H.M.S. _Spartan_, who was
there in 1847. But at that season of the year we could perceive no
traces of the shallow or ford by which the Arabs occasionally pass over
to it on the way to Kerak.
At half-past nine we were in front of _Sebbeh_, with a view of the ruins
of Masada on its summit, to which, however, we did not climb, but
contented ourselves with recalling to memory the heroic events of the
Jewish defenders, as related by Josephus. Here the sea, retiring towards
our side, forms a semicircular bay, terminating at _'Ain Jidi_,
(Engeddi,) where we arrived at two o'clock. There we were at a
considerable elevation above the shore, which we now abandoned, not only
because all further advance in that direction is impracticable, but
because our route towards Jerusalem lay in a different direction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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