In half an hour we attained our greatest elevation, with a long line of
Mediterranean visible in the west. The Anti-Lebanon stretched before us
on the east, and among the hills to the south our guide declared he could
distinguish Safed. Here he left us, returning homewards.
Upon this eminence the air was reviving, and as the fervour of the sun
abated, our horses recovered energy. Thence we descended to a green
level space as void of inhabitants as the wild scenes that we had
traversed; and from that to a stage lower, over a very long fertile plain
running southwards, where we fell in with two or three of our fellow
human beings, and over this the wind blew very cold. Forwards into
another level, a glen of wild verdure, then through chalk fissures and
red slopes, till in a moment there burst upon our view a prospect beyond
all power of description in words; Mount Hermon, (Jebel esh Shaikh,) and
the intervening long plain, also the Litani river on our right, winding
between tremendous cliffs, and passing the castle of Shukeef towards the
sea.
That river passing the foot of our mountain, and over which we had
afterwards to cross, appeared like a narrow ribbon of pale green, so
silent was it to us, for no sound from that depth could reach up so high;
to this we had to descend by a precipitous path of zigzags roughly made
in the face of the hill.
Half way down I first distinguished the rushing sound of the water; a
flock of goats upon its margin resembled mere black spots, but the bells
among them became faintly audible.
On reaching the river Litani, (the classic Leontes, and named the
"Kasimiyeh" when debouching to the sea near Tyre,) we found it to be a
strong stream, and the dark border, which from a distance had seemed to
be low bushes, were in truth gigantic and numerous trees; on our way to
the bridge, along the river side for some distance, were parapets erected
for the safety of travellers and flocks of cattle.
It was after sunset, but we rested awhile to stretch our limbs after the
cramp brought on by the steep and long descent.
The moon was shining as we crossed the bridge, and its light was broken
in the heady dashing of the stream; the land swelled gradually upwards as
we proceeded S.-E. till we passed a ridge and turned N.-E. to the village
of _Cocaba_ on the great plain, which has the river _Hhasbani_ flowing
through it, from which village we got directions how to find Hhasbeya.
Thoroughly tired as we all were, the rest of the way was most wearisome,
though not so much so as it would have been in the heat of day, after so
many hours on horseback. The night was bright and clear.
Reached _Hhasbeya_ in thirteen hours from Joon in the morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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