Next morning, after returning the visit of the bishop at the patriarchal
residence in front of the convent, we breakfasted in the corridor with
the president and another of the convent clergy. Our ladies then set
themselves to sketching the view from the window, and talking about
church singing from notes, whereupon the president sent a deacon to fetch
his book, and the latter sang for us an anthem, the vociferation and
screechings of which was so alarming, not to mention the nasal twang,
that my niece had to run away to indulge in an obstreperous laugh, and
her senior companion had also much difficulty in refraining from the same
kind of expression of opinion. The Oriental system of church musical
notation is very complicated, having no stave-lines or bars, but only
certain arbitrary marks over the notes to designate high or low, plain or
flourishing.
Afterwards we inspected the church; then the refectory, and there they
showed us the desk at which one of the community reads to the rest at
meal time, triumphantly assuring me that they read the Bible, yet the two
books I found on the desk were, one the Apocryphal writings, the other
some homilies of St Basil, under whose rule the convent is constituted.
Next we walked over the roof, and looked at the great bell, and the gong;
the view, as might be expected, repaid the trouble. After this the
kitchen and the store-rooms.
On leaving the convent we proceeded to the nunnery in the neighbourhood.
The ladies visited the inmates, while I remained in an outer apartment
chatting with a priest, till a curtain was drawn aside, and there,
behold! were the lady-president and her flock, curious to see a consul,
and blaming the servants for not having admitted me together with my
companions.
The latter gave me afterwards as their opinion of the establishment, that
it very much resembled a comfortable asylum or almshouse for old women.
By this deviation from the high roads we lost the fairy view in that
neighbourhood which had charmed me so much in 1849.
There is a pleasing novelty to us non-Lebanonites in being in a native
Christian country. Every hill there has its convent, every convent its
bells; clergy are continually passing along the road; and on our descent
of the hill we met a nice old gentleman in clerical dress, with a very
white beard, holding a crimson umbrella over his head, (this is not
uncommon in Palestine,) and preceded by a kawwas with a silver-headed
official staff, also accompanied by a few peasants carrying guns,--this
was a Maronite bishop.
Crossed the river Barook at _Bisrah_, and ascended the usual highway
leading to Hhasbeya.
At the village of _Ineer_ we took further directions, and followed over a
very wild scene to nearly the summit of a mountain called
_Rummet-er-Room_, (the Ramah, or high-place, of the Greeks,) from which
the glorious landscape surpasses all power of description--it is one not
to be forgotten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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