"Now, ladies, the horses are ready, and we have further to go," broke in
upon the muse of Lebanon. The day's work had to be finished, and time
was short; so we rode away to the bitumen pits in the neighbourhood of
Cocaba. These are not worked in warm weather, for the people are afraid
of the possible effects of their gas generated under a hot sun. One of
the pits is seventy ells, or cubits, deep, and the bitumen is reached
through a crust of chalky soil. The property is a government monopoly,
rented by natives, and the business is lazily and irregularly carried on;
therefore, sometimes the success is greater than at others. We found two
men living in a tent as guardians of the place, who were very civil to
us, and permitted us to carry away some specimens. These were all of a
very soft consistency; but at the bitumen works at four hours north of
Hhasbeya, the mineral is of a still softer description, almost liquid.
Next morning, the Kadi paid us a visit, accompanied by a merchant of
Damascus, a correspondent of an English house in India for indigo.
On Sunday we attended divine service at the native Protestant church,
which the people call the English church, and in virtue thereof have set
up a bell above it; because, although the mission is carried on by
American money and under the direction of American agents, the American
consuls are forbidden by their home-government from taking any steps in
behalf of their undertakings; and thus, but for the protection given them
by Mr Wood, British consul of Damascus, and his consular friends at
Bayroot, the American Mission, with all their schools and
printing-presses, would, upon all human calculation, have been crushed
long ago.
In conformity with Oriental usage, the congregation was divided according
to the sexes. In the old Eastern churches the women are placed in a
gallery above the men, but here the equality of the sexes was maintained
by their occupying the same floor, while separated from each other by a
wall built rather higher than the usual stature of a man; the pulpit
being equally visible from each division. A large jar of water stood in
the corner within the door, to which the men repaired occasionally, as
they felt thirsty. There were no chairs or benches, except such as were
brought from the house for our party, the congregation were sitting on
their heels, in which posture they sang the hymns, and remained so during
the prayer, only covering the face with the right hand; a few men,
however, stood up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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