In my two journeys just described, the route was over the southern part of the long Lebanon range, not only on the main ridge, but crossing some of the innumerable spurs thrown out towards the sea. This time, however, we have to deal with a more northerly and higher region; and it is because of its being in a different direction from those of 1849 and 1855 that I have not observed the consecutive order of date--this was in 1853. We shall start from the coast, where the most projecting and western spur subsides into Ras Bayroot, and the climbing begins almost immediately after leaving deep yellow sands and the pine forest. The object was to reach Mokhtarah, perched high in the heart of the Shoof or central ridge of Lebanon, like an eyrie, as it was then, for the princely house of Jonblat. Mokhtarah lies S.-E. from Bayroot, and to arrive there we had to cross the intervening spurs, climbing as we went. The town of Dair el Kamar and the palace of Beteddeen, formerly the headquarters of the house of Shehab, lay upon the road. The remainder of the journey after Mokhtarah consisted in a rapid descent to Sidon, the great port in antiquity for Damascus, Phoenicia, and the Lebanon. This tour comprised the finest range of the territory occupied by the Druse nation. 1853. _July_.--From Bayroot, with its bewitching scenery and its gorgeous colouring of mountains and the sea, we went to _'Abeih_, the best known of the American missionary stations in the Lebanon. Through the woods of pines, with their reviving fragrance, and through _El Hadeth_, an entirely Christian village, where the bell of the Maronite convent was ringing as we passed, we came to _Shuwaifat_, and rose still higher towards the mountain pines and the breezes so desirable in Syria in the month of July, leaving below the olive in abundance, the mulberry and the fig-trees. Beside the fountain called _'Ain Besaba_ was a pottery factory. The nature of the rocks around was soft sandstone; a gigantic pear-tree stood conspicuous among the excellent cultivation of the neighbourhood; higher still, between straight tall pines and wild holly-oaks, our road curved round and round the hills. We overtook a company of Christians, the women riding and the men walking--this circumstance alone would show they were not Mohammedans. The two parties had to pass each other with much caution, as the path was narrow and the precipice deep below.