Hhamdan, Shaikh of the Ta'amra, with about a dozen of his men, escorted
me and one kawwas in that direction. Instead of proceeding to Jericho or
Elisha's fountain, we turned aside into the wildest of wildernesses for
passing the night. Traversing the length of an extremely narrow ridge,
something like the back of a knife, we descended to a great depth below;
but the risk being judged too great for conveying the tent and bed over
there by the mule, these were left spread upon the ground for the night
under the canopy of heaven; while the men carried our food for us to make
the evening meal. Crawling or sliding, and leading the horses gently, we
got to the bottom, and then followed up a very narrow glen, winding in
and out, and round about between extraordinary precipices rising to
enormous heights, till all at once the men halted, shouted, and sang, and
stripped themselves to bathe in small pools formed in holes of the rock
by settlements of rain-water.
This was our halting-place, but the scene beggars all power of
description. We were shut into a contracted glen by a maze of tortuous
windings, between mountains of yellow marl on either side; but broken,
rugged, naked of all vegetation,--referring one's imagination to the
period when the earth was yet "without form and void," or to the
subsiding of the deluge from which Noah was delivered.
Looking upwards to a great height we could just see the tops of the
imprisoning hills gilded awhile by the setting sun, and a small space of
blue making up the interval between the precipices. Those precipices
were not, however, entirely yellow, but variegated with occasional red or
somewhat of brown ochre. So fantastic in position or shape were the
masses hurled or piled about, and the place so utterly removed "from
humanity's reach," that it might be imagined suitable to mould the genius
of Martin into the most extravagant conceptions of chaos, or to suggest
the colouring of Turner without his indistinctness of outline.
The echoes of the men's voices and bursts of laughter (the latter so
uncommon among Arabs) when splashing in the water, were reverberated from
hill to hill and back again; but there were no wild birds among the rocks
to scream in rejoinder as at Petra.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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