On the crest of a high hill two or three hours west from Jerusalem,
stands the village of Soba, and it has long been imagined to be Modin,
the birth-place and burial-place of the Maccabaean heroes; though I never
heard any reason assigned for that identification, except the
circumstance of the sea being visible from it, and therefore of its being
visible from the sea, which was supposed to tally with the description
given in 1 Macc. xiii., 27-30, of the monuments erected there,--"Simon
also built a monument upon the sepulchre of his father and his brethren,
and raised it aloft to the sight, with hewn stone behind and before.
Moreover, he set up seven pyramids, one against another, for his father,
and his mother, and his four brethren. And in these he made cunning
devices, about the which he set great pillars, and upon the pillars he
made all their armour for a perpetual memory; and by the armour ships
carved, that they might be seen of all that sail on the sea. This is the
sepulchre which he made at Modin, and it standeth yet unto this day."
I never was persuaded that the words implied that ships carved on pillars
at Soba, could be distinguished from the sea, or even that the columns
themselves were visible from ships off the coast; but only this, that the
deliverers of their country from the intolerable yoke of the Syrians,
having opened up communication with the Grecians and Romans, marine
intercourse had become more frequent than before, a matter that the
Maccabaean family were proud of; and therefore they had ships carved on
the pillars, as might be observed by seafaring people who might go there;
yet, whatever the words might signify, they could not prove that Modin
was so far inland, and among the hills, as Soba.
However, in 1858, I went with my son and a couple of friends to inspect
the place itself, considering it at least worth while to make one's own
observations on the spot.
We passed through _'Ain Carem_, the _Karem_ of the Septuagint, to
_Sattaf_, and rested during the heat of the day in a vineyard, near a
spring of water and plots of garden vegetables, belonging to the few
houses that had been rebuilt after several years of devastation by
village warfare.
The approach to the place from any direction is through the very rough
torrent bed of the Wadi Bait Hhaneena, and along very narrow ledges upon
the sides of steep hills, quite as perilous as any that are used for
travelling in any part of the Lebanon; too dangerous to admit of
dismounting and leading the horse after the risk has once begun, by far
the safest method of advancing is to hold the reins very loose, and if
you wish it, to shut your eyes.
Opposite to Sattaf, directly across the valley, the Latins had lately
rebuilt a small chapel of former times, said to have been the prison of
John the Baptist; they name it the Chapel of the _Hhabees_, _i.e._, the
imprisoned one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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