The country was all level enough for carriages; and it is probable that
all the way in the south is practicable in like manner, for we know that
Joseph sent carriages from Egypt to his father at Beersheba.
The _Boorj_ is simply a look-out tower, now used for quarantine purposes,
ridiculous as they may be in the pure air of the desert.
There are relics of a village about it; but as the people are living in
caverns rather than taking pains to rebuild their houses, we may infer
that they do not feel secure on the very last remnant of fixed
habitations towards the great southern wilderness, although under Turkish
government.
They are, however, kept in considerable awe of the petty officers
stationed there; for when one of our party was impatient at the intrusion
of a cat near our supper cloth, the people besought us not to injure the
animal, seeing that it was the property of the _Dowleh_ (Government.)
They furnished us with eggs and milk; and, after our meal, we lay down on
the leeward side of the town, to await the rising of the moon. We had a
fire burning near us, its red light flickering over the wild scene; the
sky with its milky-way over our heads, and the polar star in the
direction of England, fixed in its well-known place.
The villagers had their own chatting round the watchfire, discussing
local politics, chiefly, as to whether 'Abderrahhman the governor of
Hebron was likely to accept the Pasha's invitation to meet 'Abdallah Wafa
Effendi, who was sent with overtures of reconciliation between the
brothers of the Amer family. This being a question that bore very nearly
on their personal interests.
I awoke just as the moon gleamed in the east, but did not arouse the
youths for another half hour, till I became apprehensive of evil effects
from their sleeping in the moonlight.
After coffee we mounted and went forward, escorted by two of the
quarantine guardians. There were no more hills, but the remaining
country was all of hard untilled ground, with sprinklings of tamarisk and
kali bushes, which showed we were entering on a new botanical region.
Arrived at an Arab encampment, where our escort were obliged to hire the
shaikh for showing us the way, as they either did not know it, or, which
I believe the more probable, did not dare to take travellers over his
land without his sharing in the profits, even though they were officials
of quarantine. He soon came up, riding a fine mare of the Saklawi race,
and his spear over the shoulder, glittering in the moonlight. His name
was _Ayan_, and his people were a small offset from the great _Tiyahah_
tribe. We passed several other such stations, of which we were always
made aware beforehand by the barking of their dogs, and by seeing the
camels browsing or reposing at a little distance from the tents.
As the night advanced, the mist rose and increased till the stars were
obscured and the moon scarcely perceptible; our clothes also became
nearly wet through.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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