With one horseman and a kawwas, I diverged westwards from the common road
just before the descent to 'Ain Dirweh, between it and the ruined town of
Bait Soor, (Bethzur of Joshua xv. 58,) leaving Hhalhhool of the same
verse on my right hand. Advanced gradually down a woody glen of the
usual evergreen oak and pine. The higher part of the valley is in
excellent cultivation, with careful walls, and drains to keep off the
winter rains that descend from the hills, although no villages were in
sight except in one place on an eminence to the left, where an apparently
well-built village was entirely abandoned. It is called _Ma'naeen_; and
the history of it, as I have since learned, is that it was only a few
years before built by a colony of refugees from oppression in sundry
villages, who concerted to set up on their own account, without regard to
the authority of their family connexions, or of the hereditary shaikhs.
So daring an innovation upon national customs was resented by a coalition
of all the country round, who made war upon them, and dispersed the
people once more to their miserable homes. The Turkish Government
allowed of this proceeding, on the ground that to suffer the
establishment of new villages (which of course implies new shaikhs to
rule them) would derange the account-books of the taxes, which had been
definitely fixed years before under the Egyptian Government.
Lower down, where the glen became narrow and stony, a large rock has been
hewn into a chamber for some ancient hermit, not unlike the one in the
Wadi Ahhmed between Rachel's sepulchre and Batteer (Bether) near
Jerusalem, only in this case the entrance is shaded by venerable
karoobah-trees, so large as to cover the road also with their branches.
We were met by various camel-parties carrying kali for the glass-works of
Hebron during the approaching winter, also fine mats and other goods from
Damietta, which, after being landed at Jaffa, are thus conveyed by
reliefs of camels to their destination of Hebron, Bethlehem, and
Jerusalem.
On emerging from the valley (Wadi Arab or Shaikh) into the open Vale of
'Elah, we had _Kharas_ perched on an eminence close at our right, and
_Nuba_ similarly posted to our left.
Also the ruins of _'Elah_ were on our left, and far behind our left hand,
in among the hills, on a commanding height, was Keelah.
We were now traversing the Valley of 'Elah, which runs north-westwards,
and which I have described in my former journey. Now, as on that visit,
I saw young shepherd lads pasturing large flocks as David may have done
over the same ground.
This time, however, I had entered the valley from a different
point--viz., from its eastern end at Kharas, and not where Shocoh and
Bait Nateef lie opposite to each other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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