Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya ColonyCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya Colony
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Egypt -- Description and travel; Kenya -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel
After the siege and capture of Khartum the people who had held out
against the Mahdists were put to the most unspeakable tortures, all of
them, that is, except the young women and girls. These were reserved
for the Mahdi’s harem. For weeks after the battle there went on in his
camp at Omdurman the business of choosing from the fairest for his own
establishment, while the ones he rejected were turned over to his chief
favourites and advisers. After Mohammed Ahmed’s death, which occurred
close on the heels of his victory, the Khalifa had the Mahdi’s widows and
all the women of his harem imprisoned in a high-walled compound guarded
by eunuchs. None was allowed to marry or go out into the world again.
The Omdurman of the present, which is laid on practically the same lines
as that of the past, covers almost the same ground, although it has much
fewer people. During my trip of to-day I climbed to the top of the old
palace of the Khalifa, and took a look over the city.
The houses stretch along the Nile for seven or eight miles, and the water
front is fringed with a thicket of boats. Some of the town is on the main
stream, and reaches out from the river in all directions. It is a city
of mud in every sense of the word. Of its many thousand houses there are
not a score which are of more than one story, and you can count on your
fingers the houses made of burnt brick. When I first rode through it I
asked my guide if the holes in the walls had been made by cannon-balls
at the time of the fighting. “Why, man,” he replied, “those are the
windows.” Most of the houses are flat roofed, with drain pipes extending
out over the street so that when it rains the water pours down on the
necks of the passers-by. The one-story mud houses have mud walls about
them, and the mud stores face streets paved only with mud. The walls
of the vast inclosure of the Khalifa are made of mud bricks, while the
houses inside, which now form the quarters of the Anglo-Egyptian soldiers
and officers, are of sun-baked dirt.
The Khalifa was so afraid of being assassinated that he had all the
houses near his palace torn down, shut himself up in his walled
inclosure, and kept at his side a great bodyguard, to which he was
forever adding more soldiers. His special apartments in the palace were
considered the last word in luxury. They had beautiful curtains and
carpets of silk and actually boasted big brass beds with mosquito nets,
spoils from the European houses at Khartum.
Standing on the Khalifa’s palace, one can follow many of the streets
with one’s eye. Some of them are of great width, but the majority are
narrow and winding. The whole city, in fact, is a labyrinth cut up by
new avenues laid out by the British, with the holy buildings and the
Khalifa’s old government structures in the middle. But the British are
improving conditions in Omdurman, and have elaborate plans for its
development, including a fine park in the centre of the city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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