Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya ColonyCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya Colony
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Egypt -- Description and travel; Kenya -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel
It is strange to have shops that sell money. I do not mean stock
exchanges or banks, but real stores with money on the counters, stacked
up in bundles, or laid away in piles on the shelves. That is what they
have in Omdurman. There are caravans going out from here to all parts of
north central Africa, and before one starts away it must have the right
currency for the journey. In financial matters these people are not far
from the Dark Ages. Many of the tribes do not know what coinage means;
they use neither copper, silver, nor gold, and one of our dollars would
be worth nothing to them. Among many of the people brass wire and beads
are the only currency. Strange to say, every locality has its own style
of beads, and its favourite wire. If blue beads are popular you can buy
nothing with red ones, while if the people want beads of metal it is
useless to offer them glass.
In some sections cloth is used as money; in others salt is the medium of
exchange. The salt is moulded or cut out of the rocks in sticks, and so
many sticks will buy a cow or a camel. The owner of one of the largest
money stores of the Sudan is a Syrian, whose shop is not far from the
great market. He told me that he would be glad to outfit me if I went
into the wilds. I priced some of his beads. Those made of amber were
especially costly. He had one string of amber lumps, five in number. Each
bead was the size of a black walnut, and he asked for the string the
equivalent of about fifteen American dollars. The string will be worn
around some woman’s bare waist, and may form the whole wardrobe of the
maiden who gets it.
Not far from this bead money establishment the _mamour_ and I entered the
street of the silversmiths. This contains many shops in which black men
and boys are busy making the barbaric ornaments of the Sudan. Jewellery
is the savings bank of this region, and many of the articles are of pure
silver and pure gold. Some are very heavy. I priced rings of silver
worth five dollars apiece and handled a pair of gold earrings which the
jeweller said were worth sixty dollars. The earrings were each as big
around as a coffee cup, and about as thick as a lead pencil at the place
where they are fastened into the ear. The man who had them for sale was
barefooted, and wore a long white gown and a cap of white cotton. His
whole dress could not have cost more than ten dollars. He was a black,
and he had half-a-dozen black boys and men working away in his shop. Each
smith sat on the ground before a little anvil about eight inches high and
six inches wide, and pounded at the silver or gold object he was making.
In another shop I saw them making silver anklets as thick as my thumb,
while in another they were turning out silver filigree work as fine as
any from Genoa or Bangkok. The _mamour_ asked two of the jewellers to
bring their anvils out in the sun in order that I might photograph them
and they kindly complied.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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