Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya ColonyCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya Colony
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Egypt -- Description and travel; Kenya -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel
I wish I could show you this old town of Mombasa. It began before
Columbus discovered America, and the citizens can show you the very spot
where Vasco da Gama landed when he came here from India shortly after
he discovered the new route to Asia by the Cape of Good Hope. He landed
here in 1498 at just about the time that Columbus was making his third
voyage to America. Even then Mombasa was a city and Da Gama describes
it. A little later it became the property of the Portuguese. The most
prominent building in the town is the great red Fort of Jesus, built
by the Portuguese in 1593, when the city was made the capital of their
East African possessions. It was later the scene of massacres and bloody
fights between Portuguese and Arabs. To-day the red flag of the Sultan
of Zanzibar flies over the old fort, now used as a prison, admission to
which is forbidden.
After the Portuguese were driven out the Arabs held Mombasa for many
years, and it was an Arab ruler, the Sultan of Zanzibar, who owned it
when the British came in. It still belongs to him in a nominal way. He
has leased it to the British for so much a year, but his flag floats
above John Bull’s ensign everywhere on the island.
Most of the population of Mombasa is African. Of the twenty-six thousand
inhabitants, only about three hundred and fifty are white. There are
people here from all parts of the interior, some of them as black as jet,
and a scattering few who are chocolate brown or yellow. These natives
live in huts off by themselves in a large village adjoining the European
and Asiatic quarters. Their houses are of mud plastered upon a framework
of poles and thatched with straw. The poles are put together without
nails. There is not a piece of metal in any of them, except on the roof,
where here and there a hole has been patched up with a rusty Standard
Oil can. Very few of the huts are more than eight feet high, while some
are so low that one has to stoop to enter them. They are so small that
the beds are usually left outside the house during the daytime, and the
majority of each family sleep on the floor.
I find this African village the most interesting part of Mombasa. Its
inhabitants number over twenty-five thousand and comprise natives of
perhaps one hundred tribes, each of which has its own dress and its own
customs. Most of the women are bare-headed and bare-legged; and some of
the men are clad in little more than breech cloths. Now and then one sees
a girl bare to the waist, and the little ones wear only jewellery. On the
mainland all go more or less naked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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