Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
GASTRONOMY IN FICTION AND DRAMA
"Let me not burst in ignorance."
"A chiel's amang ye, taking notes."
Thomas Carlyle--Thackeray--Harrison Ainsworth--Sir
Walter Scott--Miss Braddon--Marie Corelli--F. C.
Philips--Blackmore--Charles Dickens--_Pickwick_ reeking
with alcohol--Brandy and oysters--_Little Dorrit_--_Great
Expectations_--Micawber as a punch-maker--_David
Copperfield_--"Practicable" food on the stage--"Johnny" Toole's
story of Tiny Tim and the goose.
Considering the number of books which have been published during the
nineteenth century, it is astonishing how few of them deal with eating
and drinking. We read of a banquet or two, certainly, in the works of
the divine William, but no particulars as to the _cuisine_ are entered
into. "Cold Banquo" hardly sounds appetising. Thomas Carlyle was a
notorious dyspeptic, so it is no cause for wonderment that he did not
bequeath to posterity the recipes for a dainty dish or two, or a good
Derby Day "Cup." Thackeray understood but little about cookery, nor
was Whyte Melville much better versed in the mysteries of the kitchen.
Harrison Ainsworth touched lightly on gastronomy occasionally, whilst
Charles Lamb, Sydney Smith, and others (blessings light on the man who
invented the phrase "and others") delighted therein. Miss Braddon has
slurred it over hitherto, and Marie Corelli scorns all mention of any
refreshment but absinthe--a weird liquid which is altogether absent
from these pages. In the lighter novels of Mr. F. C. Philips, there
is but little mention of solid food except devilled caviare, which
sounds nasty; but most of Mr. Philips's men, and all his women, drink
to excess--principally champagne, brandy, and green chartreuse. And
one of his heroines is a firm believer in the merits of cognac as a
"settler" of champagne.
According to Mr. R. D. Blackmore, the natives of Exmoor did themselves
particularly well, in the seventeenth century. In that most delightful
romance _Lorna Doone_ is a description of a meal set before Tom
Faggus, the celebrated highwayman, by the Ridd family, at Plover's
Barrows:--
"A few oysters first, and then dried salmon, and then ham
and eggs, done in small curled rashers, and then a few collops
of venison toasted, and next a little cold roast pig, and a
woodcock on toast to finish with."
This meal was washed down with home-brewed ale, followed by Schiedam
and hot water.
One man, and one man alone, who has left his name printed deep on the
sands of time as a writer, thoroughly revelled in the mighty subjects
of eating and drinking. Need his name be mentioned? What is, after
all, the great secret of the popularity of
_Charles Dickens_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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