Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
At a military guest-night in India, a turkey and a "Europe" ham
are--or were--_de rigueur_ at table; and on the whole the warrior
fares well, if the _khansamah_ do not attempt luxuries. His chicken
cutlets are not despicable, and we can even forgive the repetition of
the _vilolif_ but his _bifisteakishtoo_ (stewed steak) is usually too
highly-spiced for the European palate. Later in the evening, however,
he will come out strong with _duvlebone_, and grilled sardines in
curlpapers. The presence of the bagpipes, in the mess-room of a
Highland regiment, when men have well drunk, is cruelly unkind--to
the Saxon guest at all events. The bagpipe is doubtless a melodious
instrument (to trained ears), but its melodies are apt to "hum i' th'
head o'er muckle ye ken," after a course of haggis washed down with
sparkling wines and old port.
"Tell me what a man eats," said Brillat Savarin, "and I'll tell you
what he is."
_Peter the Great_
did not like the presence of "listening lacqueys" in the dining-room.
Peter's favourite dinner was, like himself, peculiar: "A soup, with
four cabbages in it; gruel; pig, with sour cream for sauce; cold roast
meat with pickled cucumbers or salad; lemons and lamprey, salt meat,
ham, and Limburg cheese."
"Lemons and lamprey" must have had a roughish seat, atop of pig
and sour cream. I once tasted lampreys--only once. It was in
Worcestershire, and said lampreys were stewed (I fancy) in burgundy,
and served in a small tureen--_en casserole_, our lively neighbours
would have called the production, which was grateful, but much
embarrassed with richness.
_Napoleon the Great_,
whose tastes were simple, is said to have preferred a broiled breast
of mutton to any other dinner-dish. Napoleon III., however, encouraged
extravagance of living; and Zola tells us in _Le Débâcle_ that the
unfortunate emperor, ill as he was, used to sit down to so many
courses of rich foods every night until "the downfall" arrived at
Sédan, and that a train of cooks and scullions with (literally) a
"_batterie_" _de cuisine_, was attached to his staff.
_Her Majesty_
Queen Victoria's dinner-table is invariably graced with a cold sirloin
of beef, amongst other joints; and the same simple fare has satisfied
the aspirations and gratified the palate of full many a celebrity. The
great
_Duke of Wellington_
was partial to a well-made Irish stew; and nothing delighted Charles
Dickens more than a slice out of the breast of a hot roast-goose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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