Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
A brace of birds browned in the stewpan with butter or
good dripping, and a portion of a hand of pickled pork in small
pieces, some chopped onion and a clove or two. Add some broth,
two carrots (chopped), a bay-leaf, and a chopped sausage or
two. Then add a Savoy cabbage, cut into quarters, and seasoned
with pepper and salt. Let all simmer together for an hour and a
half. Then drain the cabbage, and place it, squashed down, on a
dish. Arrange the birds in the middle, surround them with the
pieces of pork and sausage, and pour over all the liquor from
the stew.
This is an excellent dish, and savours more of Teutonic than of French
cooking. But you mustn't tell a Frenchman this, if he be bigger than
yourself.
The toothsome PEA has been cultivated in the East from time
immemorial, though the ancient Greeks and Romans do not appear to
have had knowledge of such a dainty. Had Vitellius known the virtues
of duck and green peas he would probably have not been so wrapt up in
his favourite dormice, stuffed with poppy-seed and stewed in honey.
The ancient Egyptians knew all about the little pulse, and not one
of the leaders of society was mummified without a pod or two being
placed amongst his wrappings. And after thousand of years said peas,
when sown, have been known to germinate. The mummy pea-plant, however,
but seldom bears fruit. Our idiotic ancestors, the ancient Britons,
knew nothing about peas, nor do any of their descendants appear to
have troubled about the vegetable before the reign of the Virgin
Queen. Then they were imported from Holland, together with schnapps,
curaçoa, and other things, and no "swagger" banquet was held without a
dish of "fresh-shelled 'uns," which were accounted "fit dainties for
ladies, they came so far and cost so dear." In England up-to-date peas
are frequently accompanied by pigeon pie at table; the dove family
being especially partial to the little pulse, either when attached
to the haulm, in the garden, or in a dried state. So that the crafty
husbandman, who possesses a shot gun, frequently gathereth both pea
and pigeon. A chalky soil is especially favourable to pea cultivation;
and deal sawdust sprinkled well over the rows immediately after the
setting of the seed will frustrate the knavish tricks of the field
mouse, who also likes peas. The man who discovered the affinity
between mint and this vegetable ought to have received a gold medal,
and I would gladly attend the execution of the caitiff who invented
the tinned peas which we get at the foreign restaurants, at three
times the price of the English article.
Here is a good simple recipe for PEA SOUP, made from the dried article:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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