Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
Asparagus is no longer known in the British pharmacopoeia, but the
French make large medicinal use of its root, which is supposed
to still the action of the heart, like foxglove, and to act as a
preventive of calculi. In cooking the vegetable, tie in small bundles,
which should be stood on end in the saucepan, so that the delicate
heads should be _steamed_, and not touched by the boiling water. Many
cooks will contest this point; which, however, does not admit of
argument.
There was once a discussion in a well-known hostelry, as to whether the
_Tomato_
was a fruit or a vegetable. Eventually the head-waiter was invited to
solve the great question. He did so on the spot.
"Tumarter, sir? Tumarter's a hextra."
And as a "hextra" it has never since that period ceased to be
regarded. A native of South America, the plant was introduced into
Europe by the Spaniards, late in the sixteenth century, and the
English got it in 1596. Still until a quarter of a century ago the
tomato has not been largely cultivated, save by the market gardener;
in fact in private gardens it was conspicuous by its absence. Those
who eat it do _not_ invariably succumb to cancer; and the dyspeptic
should always keep it on the premises. As the tomato is also known as
the "love-apple," a great point was missed by our old friend Sergeant
Buzfuz, in the celebrated Bardell v. Pickwick trial, when referring to
the postscript, "chops, and tomato sauce." Possibly Charles Dickens
was not an authority on veget---- I beg pardon, "hextras."
Here is a French recipe for
_Tomate au Gratin_:
Cut open the tops and scoop out the pulp. Pass it through
a sieve, to clear away the pips, and mix with it either a
modicum of butter, or oil, some chopped shalot and garlic, with
pepper and salt. Simmer the mixture for a quarter of an hour,
then stir in some bread-crumbs, previously soaked in broth, and
some yolks of egg. When cold, fill the tomato skins with the
mixture, shake some fine bread raspings over each, and bake in
quick oven for ten or twelve minutes.
The
_Turnip_
is not, as might be sometimes imagined, entirely composed of
compressed deal splinters, but is a vegetable which was cultivated in
India long before the Britons got it. The Scotch call turnips "neeps";
but the Scotch will do anything. Probably no member of the vegetable
family is so great a favourite with the insect pests sent on earth by
an all-wise Providence to prevent mankind having too much to eat. But
see that you get a few turnips to cook when there is roast duck for
dinner.
_Spinach_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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