Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
At the Oriental Club are served, or used to be served, really
excellent curries, assorted; for as there be more ways than one of
killing a cat, so are there more curries than one. The French turn
out a horrible mixture, with parsley and mushrooms in it, which they
call _kari_; it is called by a still worse name on the Boulevards, and
the children of our lively neighbours are frequently threatened with
it by their nurses.
On the whole, the East Indian method is the best; and the most
philanthropic curry I ever tasted was one which my own _Khitmughar_
had just prepared, with infinite pains, for his own consumption. The
poor heathen had prospected a feast, as it was one of his numerous
"big days"; so, despising the homely _dhal_, on the which, with a
plate of rice and a modicum of rancid butter, he was wont to sustain
existence, he had manufactured a savoury mess of pottage, the looks
of which gratified me. So, at the risk of starting another Mutiny, it
was ordained that the slave should serve the refection at the table of
the "protector of the poor." And a _pukkha_ curry it was, too. Another
dish of native manufacture with which the writer became acquainted was
a
_Parsee Curry_.
The eminent firm of Jehangeer on one occasion presented a petition to
the commanding-officer that they might be allowed to supply a special
curry to the mess one guest-night. The request was probably made as an
inducement to some of the young officers to pay a little on account
of their "owings" to the firm; but it is to be feared that no special
vote of thanks followed the sampling of that special curry. It was
a curry! I tasted it for a week (as the Frenchman did the soup of
Swindon); and the Parsee _chef_ must have upset the entire contents
of the spice-box into it. I never felt more like murder than when the
hotel cook in Manchester put nutmeg in the oyster sauce; but after
that curry, the strangling of the entire firm of Jehangeer would, in
our cantonments, at all events, have been brought in "justifiable
homicide."
"Oyster sauce" recalls a quaint _simile_ I once heard a bookmaker make
use of. He was talking of one of his aristocratic debtors, whom he
described as sure to pay up, if you could only get hold of him. "But
mark you," continued the layer of odds, "he's just about as easy to
get hold of as _the oyster in the sauce_, at one of our moonicipal
banquets!" But return we to our coriander seeds. There is absolutely
no reason why the frugal housewife in this country should not make her
own curry powder from day to day, as it may be required. Here is an
average Indian recipe; but it must be remembered that in the gorgeous
East tastes vary as much as elsewhere, and that Bengal, Bombay, Madras
(including Burmah), Ceylon, and the Straits Settlements, have all
different methods of preparing a curry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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