Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
Instead of yolk of egg, in a dressing, cheese may be
used, with good results, either cream cheese--_not_ the poor
stuff made on straws, but what are known as "napkin," or "New
Forest" cheeses--or Cheddar. Squash it well up with oil and
vinegar, and do not use too much. A piece of cheese the size of
an average lump of sugar will be ample, and will lend a most
agreeable flavour to the mixture.
_Roman Salad_
Lucullus and Co.--or rather their cooks--had much to learn in the
preparation of the "herbaceous meat" which delighted Sydney Smith. The
Romans cultivated endive; this was washed free from "matter in the
wrong place," chopped small--absolutely fatal to the taste--anointed
with oil and _liquamen_, topped up with chopped onions, and further
ornamented with honey and vinegar. But before finding fault with the
conquerors of the world for mixing honey with a salad, it should
be remembered that they knew not "fine Demerara," nor "best lump,"
nor even the beet sugar which can be made at home. Still I should
not set a Roman salad before my creditors, if I wanted them to have
"patience." An offer of the very smallest dividend would be preferable.
_Italian Salad._
The merry Italian has improved considerably upon the herbaceous treat
(I rather prefer "treat" to "meat") of his ancestors; though he is far
too fond of mixing flesh-meat of all sorts with his dressed herbs, and
his boiled vegetables. Two cold potatoes and half a medium sized beet
sliced, mixed with boiled celery and Brussels sprouts, form a common
salad in the sunny South; the dressing being usually oil and vinegar,
occasionally oil _seule_, and sometimes a _Tartare_ sauce. Stoned
olives are usually placed atop of the mess, which includes fragments
of chicken, or veal and ham.
_Russian Salad._
This is a difficult task to build up; for a sort of Cleopatra's
Needle, or pyramid, of cooked vegetables, herbs, pickles, etc., has to
be erected on a flat dish. Carrots, turnips, green peas, asparagus,
French beans, beetroot, capers, pickled cucumbers, and horse-radish,
form the solid matter of which the pyramid is built.
Lay a _stratum_ on the dish, and anoint the _stratum_ with
_Tartare_ sauce. Each layer must be similarly anointed, and
must be of less circumference than the one underneath, till the
top layer consists of one caper. Garnish with bombs of caviare,
sliced lemon, crayfish, olives, and salted cucumber; and then
give the salad to the policeman on fixed-point duty. At least,
if you take my advice.
_Anchovy Salad._
This is usually eaten at the commencement of dinner, as a _hors
d'oeuvre_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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