Much of the history of that country is written in the names. Here the
soft Spanish locutions give place to harsher, but not less descriptive,
Americanisms--Jimtown, Jackass Hill, Squaw Creek; the cañons become
"gulches," the mesas "flats." Later both of these were overlaid by
-villes and -tons, the plain rural names of Anglo-Saxon derivation,
Coulterville, Farmington, Turlock. They smell of orchards. Prosperity
is coming back on the surface of the fruitful waters, but the redwood
forests have not come back. Centuries, nothing less, are required for
the building of one of these towers of greenness, and it is barely
forty years since all that district was one roaring blast of mining
life, rioting, jostling, snatching each from each. In the language
of the country, the Italian truck gardeners will "beat them to it."
They have smoothed over the old "slickens" and comforted the land with
crops.
As one travels north, the bulk of the Sierra lessens, the pines climb
higher, the oaks march well down into the middle valley to catch the
wet coast winds, the character of the plantations change, there are
more grain fields, more neat little farms. Finally the old Overland
emigrant trail climbs down from Donner Lake and Emigrant Gap, and you
find yourself deep in the Valley of the Sacramento.
By an air-line from the meeting of the waters, its geographical
frontier is passed in the neighbourhood of Sonora; perhaps the bridge
over the Mokelumne is a better indicator, since that river joins the
San Joaquin at the estuary, but it is not until the Overland road is
crossed that the character of the country definitely betrays the upper
valley.
Ascending the river, the works of man are less and less, the forest
and the mountains more. The rapid rise of the wooded slopes keeps
the Sacramento troublous. Tributaries, not large but swift and of
tremendous volume, pour into it. Occasionally from dark cañons is
heard the steady pound of the quartz mill, working some ancient lead,
or a smelter blocks out a whole forested slope with its poisonous
exhalations; but for the most part the northern valley is given over to
brooding quiet, to unending green, and streams as swift as adders.
In Mendocino county, on the coast side, the Range begins to lift
toward the snow-line; on the Sierra side the alpine crest shears away.
From time to time the "logging" industry cuts a wide track down the
redwood forest. One hears above the singing rivers, the clucking of
the donkey-engine or the rip of a mill still going in the midst of its
self-created, sawdust desert. The glutting of the lumber region has
been accomplished as wastefully, as violently, as the search for gold.
All up the valley tall prophets of the rain have been butchered to
make a lumberman's fat purse. But, link by link, the forestry bureau
is closing in the line of the reserves against the lumber "kings," the
Ahabs of a grasping time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account