Canada and NewfoundlandCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Canada and Newfoundland
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Canada -- Description and travel; Newfoundland and Labrador -- Description and travel
The dyer and his art have greatly changed the fur trade. It is he
who enables the salesgirl to wear furs that look like those of her
customers. For example, here is a coat made of the best beaver. Its
price is four hundred dollars, and beside it is another made of dyed
rabbit fur, marked one hundred and fifty dollars. It is hard for
a novice to tell which is the better. All sorts of new names have
been devised by the furriers to popularize dyed skins of humble
animals, from house cats to skunks, in order to increase the supply
of good-looking and durable furs. Reliable dealers will tell you just
what their garments are made of, but the unscrupulous pass off the
imitations as the genuine article.
The business of dyeing furs was developed first in Germany, when that
country led the world in making dyes. Now that New York is competing
with London as a great fur market many of the best German dyers are at
work there. From the standpoint of the consumer, the chief objection to
dyed fur is that the natural never fades, while the dyed one is almost
certain to change its hue after a time.
Now let us go into the rooms where the furs are made up. It is like
a tailor shop. Here is a designer, evolving new patterns out of big
sheets of paper. There are the cutters, making trimmings, stoles, neck
pieces, and coats. Each must be a colour expert, for a large part of
the secret of fashioning a beautiful fur garment is in the skillful
matching of the varying shades to give pleasing effects. Were the skins
for a coat sewn together just as they come from the bale, the garment
resulting would be a weird-looking patchwork. Even before the skins are
selected, they must be graded for the colours and shadings which go far
to determine their value. There are no rules for this work; it takes a
natural aptitude and long experience. In the London warehouse of the
Hudson’s Bay Company, the men of a single family have superintended the
grading of all the millions of skins handled there for more than one
hundred years.
Turn over this unfinished beaver coat lying on the bench and look at
the wrong side. See how small are the pieces of which it is made and
how irregular are their shapes. It is a mass of little patches, yet
the outer, or right side, looks as though it were made of large skins,
all of about the same size and shape. A coat of muskrat, transformed
by dyeing into Hudson seal, may require seventy-five skins; a moleskin
coat may contain six hundred. But in making up either garment each
skin must be cut into a number of pieces and fitted to others in order
to get the blending of light and dark shades which means beauty and
quality.
[Illustration: The Eskimo woman and her children wear as every-day
necessities furs which if made into more fashionable garments would
bring large sums. Usually the whole family goes on the annual trip to
the trading post.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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