All sorts of animal tracks were to be seen as we rode over the trail. The woods are full of bears, brown and black, caribou in great numbers, and wide-antlered moose. There are foxes and lynx and millions of rabbits. We passed groves of small trees, every one of which had been killed by the rabbits. They had eaten the bark off during the winter, beginning when the snow was two or three feet in depth and biting it away inch by inch as the snow melted, until a belt of white a yard wide girdled each tree. The bark above and below was dark green or brown, and the white shone out like ivory. Beavers and muskrats abound in the streams, and there are many kinds of squirrels, as well as gophers, that burrow like moles under the roadway. We crossed many such burrows, our motor car hitting them with a bump that shot us from our seats, so that our heads struck the top. Upon starting from White Horse we were told of a narrow escape from a bear that one of the railroad clerks had had only the night before. This man had gone out to a lake in the woods about five miles away and made a good catch of fish. He was riding home on his bicycle when a big black bear rushed out of the forest and upset him. Fortunately, he fell near a dead root. He seized this as he jumped up, and hit old Bruin a blow on the snout. Then, before the bear had time to recover, he mounted his bicycle and sped away. But the bear got the fish. Our first stop was twenty-two miles from White Horse, at the Tahkeena road house, on the Tahkeena River, where there is a famous Irish cook, Jimmy. The road house is built of logs and heated by a stove made of a hundred-gallon gasoline tank. The tank lies on its side, resting on four legs made of iron pipe. A stovepipe is fitted into the top and a door is cut in one end. The result is an excellent heating device, and one that is common in many parts of Alaska and the Klondike. We got a snack at this road house on our first stop and had an excellent dinner there on our return. We crossed the Tahkeena River on a ferry boat attached to a cable worked by the current. We then rode on through a parklike country, spotted with groves of pine trees, each as high as a three-story house, as straight as an arrow, and, branches and all, no bigger around than a nail keg. I cannot describe the beauty of these trees. Where they were thick we rode for miles through walls of green twenty or thirty feet high, and in places where the trees had been burned by forest fires the walls were of silver, the dead branches having been turned to the most exquisite filigree.