Canada -- Description and travel; Canadian poetry -- History and criticism
articles so able in their discernment as to be widely quoted and
discussed.
Miss Scidmore's initial trip to Alaska, interpreted in a book
offering a series of singularly vivid impressions, combined, too,
with a study of facts and prevailing conditions, and fascinating
pictorial descriptions of this "water-colour land" as she {212}
termed it, from the faint evanescent hues of sunshine on the
glaciers, perhaps contributed more than any other single cause to
stimulate the demand for passenger excursions to this country.
Miss Scidmore's description of Muir Glacier, an exquisite piece of
word-painting, has often been reproduced; and of her last, lingering
view of this spectacle she wrote:
"The whole brow was transfigured with the fires of sunset; the blue
and silvery pinnacles, the white and shining front dreamlike on a
roseate and amber sea, and the range and circle of dull violet
mountains lifting their glowing summits into a sky flecked with
crimson and gold."
Somewhere about 1889 another gifted American woman, Kate Field,
author, lecturer, and a charming figure in society, visited Alaska;
and to Miss Field belongs the honour of having delivered the first
lecture ever given in that country. It was in Juneau, in a primitive
and unfinished room, that Miss Field gave this lecture, utilising a
rough table as a platform. Her audience included miners in their
working garb, prospectors, many of the usual camp-followers, a few
Indians, and several of her fellow-passengers from the steamer. Her
theme was that of good citizenship, and one of her hearers afterwards
reported that she gave them wholesome truths with characteristic
vehemence and earnestness. Miss Field was rewarded by being
presented with the "freedom" of the town (then hardly more than a
mining-camp), with a pair of silver bracelets made by the Indians,
{213} a bottle of virgin gold, and a totem pole. These picturesque
tributes were highly valued by their witty and graceful recipient,
and she often displayed them with pride and pleasure to her friends
in Washington, New York, Paris, or London. Visiting the Muir Glacier
at this early period when its unequalled grandeur was at its
perfection (for of late years earthquakes and devastations have
changed its contour) Miss Field thus described it:
"Imagine a glacier three miles wide and three hundred feet high, and
you have a slight idea of Muir Glacier. Picture a background of
mountains fifteen thousand feet high, all snow-clad, and then imagine
a gorgeous sun lighting up crystals with rainbow colouring. The face
of the crystal takes on the hue of aquamarine--the hue of every bit
of floating ice that surrounds the steamer. This dazzling serpent
moves sixty-four feet a day, tumbling headlong into the sea,
startling the air with submarine thunder."
[Illustration: Prince Rupert, British Columbia]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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