Colorado River (Colo.-Mexico); Grand Canyon (Ariz.); United States -- Discovery and exploration
Just after dinner we pass a stream on the right, which leaps into' the
Colorado by a direct fall of more than 100 feet, forming a beautiful
cascade. There is a bed of very hard rock above, 30 or 40 feet in
thickness, and there are much softer beds below. The hard beds above
project many yards beyond the softer, which are washed out, forming a
deep cave behind the fall, and the stream pours through a narrow crevice
above into a deep pool below. Around on the rocks in the cavelike
chamber are set beautiful ferns, with delicate fronds and enameled
stalks. The frondlets have their points turned down to form spore cases.
It has very much the appearance of the maidenhair fern, but is much
larger. This delicate foliage covers the rocks all about the fountain,
and gives the chamber great beauty. But we have little time to spend in
admiration; so on we go.
We make fine progress this afternoon, carried along by a swift river,
shooting over the rapids and finding no serious obstructions. The
canyon walls for 2,500 or 3,000 feet are very regular, rising almost
perpendicularly, but here and there set with narrow steps, and
occasionally we can see away above the broad terrace to distant cliffs.
We camp to-night in a marble cave, and find on looking at our reckoning
that we have run 22 miles.
August 24.--The canyon is wider to-day. The walls rise to a vertical
height of nearly 3,000 feet. In many places the river runs under a cliff
in great curves, forming amphitheaters half-dome shaped.
Though the river is rapid, we meet with no serious obstructions and
run 20 miles. How anxious we are to make up our reckoning every time we
stop, now that our diet is confined to plenty of coffee, a very
272 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
little spoiled flour, and very few dried apples! It has come to be a
race for a dinner. Still, we make such fine progress that all hands are
in good cheer, but not a moment of daylight is lost.
August 25.--We make 12 miles this morning, when we come to monuments of
lava standing in the river,--low rocks mostly, but some of them shafts
more than a hundred feet high. Going on down three or four miles, we
find them increasing in number. Great quantities of cooled lava and
many cinder cones are seen on either side; and then we come to an abrupt
cataract. Just over the fall on the right wall a cinder cone, or extinct
volcano, with a well-defined crater, stands on the very brink of the
canyon. This, doubtless, is the one we saw two or three days ago. From
this volcano vast floods of lava have been poured down into the river,
and a stream of molten rock has run up the canyon three or four miles
and down we know not how far. Just where it poured over the canyon wall
is the fall. The whole north side as far as we can see is lined with the
black basalt, and high up on the opposite wall are patches of the same
material, resting on the benches and filling old alcoves and caves,
giving the wall a spotted appearance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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