Colorado River (Colo.-Mexico); Grand Canyon (Ariz.); United States -- Discovery and exploration
July 26.--We run a short distance this morning and go into camp to make
oars and repair boats and barometers. The walls of the canyon have been
steadily increasing in altitude to this point, and now they are more
than 2,000 feet high. In many places they are vertical from the water's
edge; in others there is a talus between the river and the foot of the
cliff; and they are often broken down by side canyons. It is probable
that the river is nearly as low now as it is ever found. High-water
mark can be observed 40, 50, 60, or 100 feet above its present
stage. Sometimes logs and driftwood are seen wedged into the crevices
over-head, where floods have carried them.
About ten o'clock, Powell, Bradley, Howland, Hall, and I start
powell-canyons-144.jpg
WATER BASIN IN GYPSUM CANYON.
220
CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
up a side canyon to the east. We soon come to pools of water; then to
a brook, which is lost in the sands below; and passing up the brook,
we see that the canyon narrows, the walls close in and are often
overhanging, and at last we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater, with
a pool of deep, clear, cold water on the bottom. At first our way seems
cut off; but we soon discover a little shelf, along which we climb,
and, passing beyond the pool, walk a hundred yards or more, turn to the
right, and find ourselves in another dome-shaped amphitheater. There is
a winding cleft at the top, reaching out to the country above, nearly
2,000 feet overhead. The rounded, basin-shaped bottom is filled with
water to the foot of the walls. There is no shelf by which we can pass
around the foot. If we swim across we meet with a face of rock hundreds
of feet high, over which a little rill glides, and it will be impossible
to climb. So we can go no farther up this canyon. Then we turn back and
examine the walls on either side carefully, to discover, if possible,
some way of climbing out. In this search every man takes his own course,
and we are scattered. I almost abandon the idea of getting out and
am engaged in searching for fossils, when I discover, on the north,
a broken place lip which it may be possible to climb. The way for a
distance is up a slide of rocks; then up an irregular amphitheater,
on points that form steps and give handhold; and then I reach a little
shelf, along which I walk, and discover a vertical fissure parallel to
the face of the wall and reaching to a higher shelf. This fissure
is narrow and I try to climb up to the bench, which is about 40 feet
overhead. I have a barometer on my back, which rather impedes my
climbing. The walls of the fissure are of smooth limestone, offering
neither foothold nor handhold. So I support myself by pressing my back
against one wall and my knees against the other, and in this way lift my
body, in a shuffling manner, a few inches at a time, until I have made
perhaps 25 feet of the distance, when the crevice widens a little and I
cannot press my knees against the rock in front with sufficient power to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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