Our host said that you would be surprised if you were on the beach when
the wind blew a hurricane directly on to it, to see that none of the
drift-wood came ashore, but all was carried directly northward and
parallel with the shore as fast as a man can walk, by the inshore
current, which sets strongly in that direction at flood tide. The
strongest swimmers also are carried along with it, and never gain an
inch toward the beach. Even a large rock has been moved half a mile
northward along-the beach. He assured us that the sea was never still
on the back-side of the Cape, but ran commonly as high as your head, so
that a great part of the time you could not launch a boat there, and
even in the calmest weather the waves run six or eight feet up the
beach, though then you could get off on a plank. Champlain and
Pourtrincourt could not land here in 1606, on account of the swell (_la
houlle_), yet the savages came off to them in a canoe. In the Sieur de
la Borde’s “Relation des Caraibes,” my edition of which was published
at Amsterdam in 1711, at page 530 he says:—
“Couroumon a Caraibe, also a star [_i.e._ a god], makes the great
_lames à la mer_, and overturns canoes. _Lames à la mer_ are the long
_vagues_ which are not broken (_entrecoupées_), and such as one sees
come to land all in one piece, from one end of a beach to another, so
that, however little wind there may be, a shallop or a canoe could
hardly land (_aborder terre_) without turning over, or being filled
with water.”
But on the Bay side the water even at its edge is often as smooth and
still as in a pond. Commonly there are no boats used along this beach.
There was a boat belonging to the Highland Light which the next keeper
after he had been there a year had not launched, though he said that
there was good fishing just off the shore. Generally the Life Boats
cannot be used when needed. When the waves run very high it is
impossible to get a boat off, however skilfully you steer it, for it
will often be completely covered by the curving edge of the approaching
breaker as by an arch, and so filled with water, or it will be lifted
up by its bows, turned directly over backwards, and all the contents
spilled out. A spar thirty feet long is served in the same way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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