The places which I have described may seem strange and remote to my
townsmen,—indeed, from Boston to Provincetown is twice as far as from
England to France; yet step into the cars, and in six hours you may
stand on those four planks, and see the Cape which Gosnold is said to
have discovered, and which I have so poorly described. If you had
started when I first advised you, you might have seen our tracks in the
sand, still fresh, and reaching all the way from the Nauset Lights to
Race Point, some thirty miles,—for at every step we made an impression
on the Cape, though we were not aware of it, and though our account may
have made no impression on your minds. But what is our account? In it
there is no roar, no beach-birds, no tow-cloth.
We often love to think now of the life of men on beaches,—at least in
midsummer, when the weather is serene; their sunny lives on the sand,
amid the beach-grass and the bayberries, their companion a cow, their
wealth a jag of driftwood or a few beach-plums, and their music the
surf and the peep of the beach-bird.
We went to see the Ocean, and that is probably the best place of all
our coast to go to. If you go by water, you may experience what it is
to leave and to approach these shores; you may see the Stormy Petrel by
the way, θαλασσοδρόμα, running over the sea, and if the weather is but
a little thick, may lose sight of the land in mid-passage. I do not
know where there is another beach in the Atlantic States, attached to
the mainland, so long, and at the same time so straight, and completely
uninterrupted by creeks or coves or fresh-water rivers or marshes; for
though there may be clear places on the map, they would probably be
found by the foot traveller to be intersected by creeks and marshes;
certainly there is none where there is a double way, such as I have
described, a beach and a bank, which at the same time shows you the
land and the sea, and part of the time two seas. The Great South Beach
of Long Island, which I have since visited, is longer still without an
inlet, but it is literally a mere sand-bar, exposed, several miles from
the Island, and not the edge of a continent wasting before the assaults
of the Ocean. Though wild and desolate, as it wants the bold bank, it
possesses but half the grandeur of Cape Cod in my eyes, nor is the
imagination contented with its southern aspect. The only other beaches
of great length on our Atlantic coast, which I have heard sailors speak
of, are those of Barnegat on the Jersey shore, and Currituck between
Virginia and North Carolina; but these, like the last, are low and
narrow sandbars, lying off the coast, and separated from the mainland
by lagoons. Besides, as you go farther south, the tides are feebler,
and cease to add variety and grandeur to the shore. On the Pacific side
of our country also no doubt there is good walking to be found; a
recent writer and dweller there tells us that “the coast from Cape
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