Most persons visit the sea-side in warm weather, when fogs are
frequent, and the atmosphere is wont to be thick, and the charm of the
sea is to some extent lost. But I suspect that the fall is the best
season, for then the atmosphere is more transparent, and it is a
greater pleasure to look out over the sea. The clear and bracing air,
and the storms of autumn and winter even, are necessary in order that
we may get the impression which the sea is calculated to make. In
October, when the weather is not intolerably cold, and the landscape
wears its autumnal tints, such as, methinks, only a Cape Cod landscape
ever wears, especially if you have a storm during your stay,—that I am
convinced is the best time to visit this shore. In autumn, even in
August, the thoughtful days begin, and we can walk anywhere with
profit. Beside, an outward cold and dreariness, which make it necessary
to seek shelter at night, lend a spirit of adventure to a walk.
The time must come when this coast will be a place of resort for those
New-Englanders who really wish to visit the sea-side. At present it is
wholly unknown to the fashionable world, and probably it will never be
agreeable to them. If it is merely a ten-pin alley, or a circular
railway, or an ocean of mint-julep, that the visitor is in search
of,—if he thinks more of the wine than the brine, as I suspect some do
at Newport,—I trust that for a long time he will be disappointed here.
But this shore will never be more attractive than it is now. Such
beaches as are fashionable are here made and unmade in a day, I may
almost say, by the sea shifting its sands. Lynn and Nantasket! this
bare and bended arm it is that makes the bay in which they lie so
snugly. What are springs and waterfalls? Here is the spring of springs,
the waterfall of waterfalls. A storm in the fall or winter is the time
to visit it; a light-house or a fisherman’s hut the true hotel. A man
may stand there and put all America behind him.
[1] It is remarkable that the first, if not the only, part of New
England which Cartier saw was Vermont (he also saw the mountains of
New York), from Montreal Mountain, in 1535, sixty-seven years before
Gosnold saw Cape Cod. _If seeing is discovering_,—and that is _all_
that it is proved that Cabot knew of the coast of the United
States,—then Cartier (to omit Verrazani and Gomez) was the discoverer
of New England rather than Gosnold, who is commonly so styled.
[2] “Savage Rock,” which some have supposed to be, from the name, the
_Salvages_, a ledge about two miles off Rockland, Cape Ann, was
probably the _Nubble_, a large, high rock near the shore, on the east
side of York Harbor, Maine. The first land made by Gosnold is presumed
by experienced navigators to be Cape Elizabeth, on the same coast.
(See Babson’s History of Gloucester, Massachusetts.)
The University Press, Cambridge, U. S. A.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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