Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
[Illustration: Cathedrals of Trondhjem (p. 81) and S. Isaac, St.
Petersburg (p. 246), illustrating the very different character of the
Gothic and the Classic styles. (Later Gothic refers only to Trondhjem).]
[_Face page 246_
The existing Cathedral of St. Isaac was forty years in building and
was finished in 1858, the architect being a Frenchman, the Chevalier
de Montferrand. In magnificence of material it surpasses almost all,
and in excellence of position it excels very many of the great churches
of Christendom. Its chief merit is that it is the one building in the
capital that really suggests durability and permanence. There is just
a faint suggestion--very slight indeed, but still impossible entirely
to shake off--of temporary exhibition buildings about the acres and
acres of plaster in which the other great monuments of the capital
are sheathed. But this cathedral is of solid marble or stone, and in
its proportions the most massive large church in Christendom, a very
considerable part indeed of its area being occupied by walls and piers.
On the four sides of the church stand the four noblest porticoes that
have been erected since Roman days. With the proneness of the Eastern
Church to symbolism these glorious portals might have been made to
suggest the City of God, but the opportunity was hopelessly lost; on
the east there is no entrance at all, and the design cannot for one
moment be compared with that of St. Sophia, St. Peter's or St. Paul's.
Indeed, what was intended for stately simplicity has degenerated into
the most hopeless commonplace.[148]
Between St. Isaac's and the river are really beautiful gardens in which
stands the famous equestrian statue of Peter (by the French sculptor,
Falconet), that Catherine II. erected in 1782, on a huge block of
granite.[149] The composition is extremely spirited and it certainly
ranks very high among monuments of a similar kind over the whole world.
The general effect of this wide open space with fine Renaissance
structures all round, including those on the far side of the river, is
exceedingly stately, especially when seen for the first time.
National character is always mirrored in national architecture,
but seldom quite as here. The plan of the city is European and the
conception is of the stateliest; the flat and rather featureless site
on both sides of a noble river is just such as to give the very utmost
opportunity for splendid architectural display. The style chosen for
the buildings, the Classic Renaissance as it was developed in France
and Italy, is perhaps more suited than any other for the objects which
successive emperors had in view. The magnificence of the great broad
streets and boulevards, the ample squares and frequent monuments all
give the impression in very truth of one of the grandest of European
capitals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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