Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
The ancient church of the Franciscans (now known as the
Riddarsholms-Kyrka) is a brick structure of the early fourteenth
century, raised a few years after the convent was founded; it is not
greatly impressive. Nave of five bays, quire of three, triple apse
to the east, clumsy-looking tower to the west. Round pillars hold up
a heavy vault, whitewash daubed, and, as is so commonly the case in
Scandinavia, unrelieved by any clearstorey. On to the tower has been
hoisted a cast iron spire that rises 290 feet into the clear air and
looks as awkward and unhappy as the similar feature over the cathedral
at Rouen. The great interest of the church is that it has become the
valhalla of warrior, sage and king; the floor is laid in gravestones,
the walls blaze with the painted arms of the Knights of the Seraphim
Order, the air is thick with the banners that Swedes have won in war.
In the quire is the effigy of the founder, but as space in the church
was small classic chapels have been added both north and south to be
the last resting-places of other of Sweden's honoured dead. On the
sun-warmed side of the quire a chapel bears date 1633, and its rather
indifferent architecture is forgotten from the fact that it contains,
within a later sarcophagus of green marble, the ashes of Gustavus
Adolphus, one of the noblest of mankind, the hero king who perished
victorious on the field of Lützen (1632).
Opposite on the north is the Carolinian chapel, a domed Classic
structure with detached columns outside where rest the renowned twelfth
Charles and other princes of the Vasa House. Another chapel bears the
name of Bernadotte, founder of the ruling line.
It was before the altar of this church during the fourteenth century
that the arrogant noble, Bo Jonsson, called Grip, because his arms were
a griffin's head, who "ruled the land with a glance of his eye,"[124]
uncontrolled by the helpless king, hewed in pieces his foe Karl
Nilsson, and was never called to account on this side of the veil.
Here, too, among the dead in later days, far into the night mused the
third Gustavus, hoping to receive some omen from his fathers' graves.
It is rather misleading to call this comparatively humble shrine the
Westminster Abbey of the land that holds the Cathedral of Upsala and so
many other glorious fanes. Instead of one of the grandest minsters on
the earth, echoing several times a day with Christian praise, it is a
somewhat commonplace church whose silence is broken only by the chatter
of tourists, save on the anniversary of some hero's death or when
another monarch has entered upon his last sleep. Nevertheless there is
a deep and haunting interest in this last earthly resting-place of so
many who have helped to shape the world.
Close to this church is a fine statue by Fogelberg to Birger Jarl.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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