With our backs turned to the woody and volcanic mountains, which divide
the western part of the island, and amid which arise, crowned with their
plumes of smoke and sparks, the two calcined pinnacles of the sulphur
mountain, we have at our feet, sheltered by the hills, which have been
named Bellevue, Mont-Désir, Beau Soliel, Espérance and Saint Charles,
the city gracefully descending towards the sea, the waves of which
sparkling with the last rays of the setting sun, laves its white walls.
The horizon, formed by the ocean, lying like a vast and limpid mirror,
and to the right and left, the most beautiful and richest plantation of
the island; large square fields of coffee trees, transplanted originally
from Arabia, with their knotty and flexible branches, covered with dark
green glossy leaves, of an oblong and pointed form, and bearing clusters
of flowers as white as snow; long rows of cotton plants, covering with
a rich carpet of verdure, the dry and stony soil, on which they thrive
best, and among which we see, like so many colossal ants, negroes
occupied in reducing to two or three, the thousand shoots which
sprout out from each stalk. And then again, but in more level and well
sheltered spots, in which the soil is richer and more argillaceous, we
see plantations of cocoa trees, first introduced into the West Indies by
the Jew, Benjamin Dacosta, with their lofty trunks and porous branches,
covered with fawn colored bark, from which large oblong leaves are
pending, among which we see fresh shoots of a soft rose color, which
contrast strongly with the long, curved and yellow fruit, which bends
the branches with its weight. And further off, whole fields of the
plant, discovered at Tabaco, first brought to France by the Ambassador
of Francis II., who presented it to Catherine de Medicis, from which
circumstance it derived its name of _Herbe-a-là-reine_.* This did not,
however, prevent it from being, like every popular thing, in the first
instance, excommunicated and proscribed, in Europe and Asia, by the
two powers who then divided the world, proscribed by the Grand Duke of
Muscovy, Michael Fedorowich, by the Turkish Sultan Amurath IV., by
the Emperor of Persia, and excommunicated by Pope Urban VIII. Here and
there, we see springing up to a height of forty or fifty feet above all
the shrubs and plants, by which it is surrounded, the banana tree of
Paradise, of which, according to tradition, the oval leaves, seven or
eight feet in length, served to form the first garment of the first
created woman. And finally, elevated above all the rest, and standing
forth pre-eminent, whether hacked by the azure of the Heavens, or by the
dark green tea, the cocoa-nut and the palm-tree, those two giants of
the Western Archipelago graceful and prodigal, as is everything that is
powerful. Figure to yourselves, then these beautiful hills, intersected
by seventy rivers, eased in beds, ninety feet in depth; these mountains
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