“I must say I envy you, for you have done that which has been for
centuries the ambition of every explorer, namely, to walk through
Africa from South to North. The amusement of the whole thing is that
a youth from Cambridge during his vacation should have succeeded in
doing that which the ponderous explorers of the world have failed to
accomplish. There is a distinct humor in the whole thing. It makes me
the more certain that we shall complete the telegraph and railway,
for surely I am not going to be beaten by the legs of a Cambridge
undergraduate.”
It took death himself to beat Rhodes. Two years after that letter was
written news went out through the army in South Africa that he was
dead. We were stunned; we felt too sick to fight. For a moment the guns
were hushed, and silence fell on the veldt after years of war. That
silence was the herald of lasting peace for British Africa, united by
stronger bonds than rail or telegraph.
* * * * *
Grogan was an undergraduate not only of Cambridge, but also of the
bigger schools called War and Adventure, for he had traveled in the
South Seas, climbed in the Alps, and fought in the Matabele campaigns,
before he made his holiday walking tour from the Cape to Cairo. He
was not the usual penniless adventurer, but, reckoned by frontier
standards, a man of means, with the good manners that ease the way for
any traveler. From the Cape to the Zambesi he had no need to tread
old trails again, and far into the heart of Africa there were already
colonies with steamers to speed the journey up to Lake Tanganyika,
where his troubles really began. Through two-thirds of the journey
Grogan had a partner, Mr. A. H. Sharp, but they were seldom in company,
for one would explore ahead while the other handled their caravan of
one hundred fifty negro carriers, or one or both went hunting, or lay
at the verge of death with a dose of fever.
Their route lay along the floor of a gash in the continent, a deep
abyss called the Great Rift, in which lies a chain of lakes: Nyassa,
Tanganyika, Kevu, Albert Edward, and Albert, whence the Nile flows down
into distant Egypt. This rift is walled and sometimes blocked by live
volcanoes, fouled with swamps, gigantic forests and new lava floods,
reeking with fever, and at the time of the journey was beset by tribes
of hostile cannibals. This pleasant path led to Khartoum, held in
those days by the Khalifa with his dervish army. The odds were about
a thousand to one that these two British adventurers were marching
straight to death or slavery. Their attempt was madness--that divine
madness that inspires all pioneers.
Now for a glimpse into this great adventure:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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