The world had not been laid out correctly, but Bering held with fervor
to his faith in that official chart for which his men were dying. At
last Tschirikoff, unable to bear it any longer, deserted Bering, and
sailing eastward many days, came at last to land at the mouth of Cross
Straits in Southern Alaska.
Beyond a rocky foreshore and white surf, forests of pine went up to
mountains lost in trailing clouds. Behind a little point rose a film of
smoke from some savage camp-fire. Tschirikoff landed a boat’s crew in
search of provisions and water, which vanished behind the point and was
seen no more. Heart-sick, he sent a second boat, which vanished behind
the point and was seen no more, but the fire of the savages blazed
high. Two days he waited, watching that pillar of smoke, and listened
to a far-off muttering of drums, then with the despairing remnant
of his crew, turned back to the lesser perils of the sea, and fled
to Siberia. Farther to the northward, some three hundred miles, was
Bering in the _Stv Petr_, driving his mutinous people in a last search
for land. It was the day after Tschirikoff’s discovery, and the ship,
flying winged out before the southwest wind, came to green shallows of
the sea, and fogs that lay in violet gloom ahead, like some mysterious
coast crowned with white cloud heights towering up the sky. At sunset,
when these clouds had changed to flame color, they parted, suddenly
revealing high above the mastheads the most tremendous mountain in the
world. The sailors were terrified, and Bering, called suddenly to the
tall after-castle of the ship, went down on his knees in awestruck
wonder. By the Russian calendar, the day was that of the dread Elijah,
who had been taken up from the earth drawn by winged horses of flame
in a chariot of fire, and to these lost mariners it seemed that this
was no mere mountain of ice walls glowing rose and azure through a rift
of the purple clouds, but a vision of the translation of the prophet.
Bering named the mountain Saint Elias.
There is no space here for the detail of Bering’s wanderings thereafter
through those bewildering labyrinths of islands which skirt the Alps
of Saint Elias westward, and reach out as the Aleutian Archipelago the
whole way across the Pacific Ocean. The region is an awful sub-arctic
wilderness of rock-set gaps between bleak arctic islands crowned by
flaming volcanoes, lost in eternal fog. It has been my fate to see the
wonders and the terrors of that coast, which Bering’s seamen mistook
for the vestibule of the infernal regions. Scurvy and hunger made
them more like ghosts of the condemned than living men, until their
nightmare voyage ended in wreck on the last of the islands, within two
hundred miles of the Siberian coast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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