Some similar or perhaps the same kind of Baboon lives a more pleasant
life than these in another district in the neighbourhood of Angola.
There are some most extraordinary rocks which are situated some two
hundred or more miles in the interior, and were mentioned more than
two centuries ago in the books of missionaries and other travellers as
great wonders of nature. They are the Black Rocks of Pungo Andongo.
These rocks, rising on the outskirts of a district celebrated for its
marvellous fertility and richness of vegetation, are arid-looking on
the top, and dark, partly from the natural tint of the stone which is
composed of gneiss. They encircle a valley, and extend over about ten
square miles, being rugged, or in the form of gigantic pillars. Sloping
away from the valley region with its great forests, they present
precipitous sides towards it, and are broken up by ravines.
At first sight the stone of the precipices appears to be sterile or
poor in vegetation, but the nearer the margin of the high land is
approached the more luxuriant it becomes, the more flowery the open
fields, and the more numerous the crystal brooks. Cultivation goes on
here, and grain is carefully sewn, maize especially. In other parts
of the valley a dense dark-green primeval forest reaches close to
the precipitous and partly sterile walls of rock. The upper part of
the precipices and rocks is, however, bare of any shrub or tree-like
vegetation, and looks arid enough during the greater part of the year.
Now all this is of great importance to the Baboon. He lives on the top
of the rocks in hollows and under ledges of stone, and safely placed
there in inaccessible places, he surveys the fertile scene below him,
and selects the choicest of the fields for the supply of his food.
Probably there would be no such oasis in the country were it not for a
very curious plant which really gives the name to the “Black Rocks,”
and which clothes the hills during the wet season. And if there were
no fertile valley the Baboon would certainly not be found in this
district. As the wet season progresses, the hills look blacker and
blacker, their ruggedness disappears, and even the sterile faces of
the precipices grow dark, and the vegetation of the valley appears to
crowd up their slope. All this alteration is produced by the vigorous
and indeed enormous growth of a singular plant called Scytonema. It
retains much moisture within its tangles, and long after the rains
have ceased to be felt and to influence the vegetation of the valley,
the aridity of the district is antagonised or put off for a while
by this interesting property. The Scytonema selects the bare rocks
for its favourite locality, and these surround the valley with its
teeming vegetation as with a great sponge, whose moisture prolongs
the weeks of plant life and of active growth, and adds to a wonderful
fertility. With plenty of running water, abundance of food, and a very
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