Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
Nuits, not to be confounded with Nuits-sous-Ravières, is more famous for
its wine _crus_ than its monuments or its history. Besides a picturesque
belfry and hôtel-de-ville, both excellent examples of the local
architecture, it has no monuments of remark, although a sort of
reflected glamour hangs over it by reason of its proximity to the site
of the ancient Chateau de Vergy, when it was the capital of the tiny
province belonging to the celebrated Burgundian family of this name.
The metropolis of these parts is Beaune. It has been called a "_vieille
grande dame qui s'est faite ouvrière et marchande_." And Beaune is, for
a fact, all this. But by contrast with its commercialism its mediæval
aspect is also well preserved in spite of the fact that its manorial
magnificence is much depleted.
The contrastingly modern and mediæval aspect, and to some extent its
military character, makes Beaune most interesting. The ramparts
themselves have been turned into a series of encircling boulevards, but
here and there a fragment of wall is left plunging sheer down to the
moat below, which has not yet been filled up. This gives quite a
suggestion of the part the old walls once played, an effect heightened
the more by three or four massive towers and portals flanking the
entrances and exits of the town. This at least gives a reminiscence of
what the former city must have been when it was girded in its corselet
of stone.
Here and there a sober and dignified _maison bourgeoise_ rears its
Renaissance head above a more humble and less appealing structure
suggestive of an ancient prosperity as great, perhaps greater, than that
which makes possible the comfortable lives of the city's fourteen
thousand souls to-day.
Another civic monument of more than ordinary remark is the watch-tower,
or belfry, a remainder of the cities of Flanders, a most unusual
architectural accessory to find in these parts, the only other
neighbouring example recalled being at Moulins in the Allier.
In spite of all this, Beaune's historic tale has little of blood and
thunder in its make-up; mostly its experiences have been of a peaceful
nature, and only because the dukes so frequently took up their residence
within its walls was it so admirably defended.
Beaune was originally the seat of the Burgundian Parliament. Henri IV,
who was particularly wroth with all things Burgundian, treated the city
with great severity after the revolt of Maréchal de Biron, razing its
castle, one of the most imposing in the province, to the ground. As a
part of the penalty Biron was put to death. On the scaffold he said to
his assistants "_Va t'en! Va t'en! Ne me touche pas qu'il soit temps_."
Five minutes later his head fell into the basket and his king was
avenged.
Since this time Beaune has been little heard of save in the arts of
peace; there is no city in France more calm to-day, nor "_plus
bourgeoise_" than Beaune, and by the use of the word _bourgeoise_ one
does not attempt irony.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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