Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
From an artistic point of view Besançon's monuments are not many or
varied if one excepts the Palais Granvelle and the military defences,
which are made up in part of a number of mediæval towers and Vauban's
citadel. There are four great sentinel towers surrounding the city, all
dating from the period of Charles Quint, but the city gates, piercing
the fortification walls, were built also by Vauban between 1668-1711,
and are by no means as ancient as they look.
The Palais Granvelle, of the sixteenth century, has a fine dignified
monumental aspect wholly impressive regardless of its lack of magnitude
and the absence of a strict regard for the architectural orders.
Liberties have been taken here and there with its outlines which place
it beyond the pale of a thoroughly consistent structure, but for all
that it undeniably pleases the eye, and more. And what else has one a
right to demand unless he is a pedant? In general the civic and domestic
architecture of the Franche Comté are of a sobriety which gives them a
distinction all their own; the opposite is true of the churches, taking
that at Pont-à-Mousson as a concrete example.
The street façade of the Palais Granvelle is undeniably fine, with a
dignity born of simplicity. Its interior façade, that giving on the
courtyard, is freer in treatment, but still not
[Illustration: _Palais Granvelle, Besançon_]
violent, and its colonnaded cloister forms a quiet retreat in strong
contrast with the bustle and noise which push by the portal scarce
twenty feet away.
The Palais Granvelle actually serves to-day the purpose of headquarters
of Besançon's Société Savante.
Nicolas Perrenot, Seigneur de Granvelle, its builder (1533-1540), was
the chancellor of Charles Quint, and brother of the Cardinal de
Granvelle, minister of Charles Quint and Philippe II. He was descended
from a noble Burgundian family, not from a blacksmith as has faultily
been given by more than one historian.
Charles Quint, in writing to his son, after the death of his
chancellor--"in his palace at Besançon," said: "My son, I am extremely
touched by the death of Granvelle. In him you and I have lost a firm
staff upon which to lean."
The centre of the admirable town house of the sixteenth century is
occupied by a vast courtyard surrounded by a series of Doric columns in
marble, supporting a range of low arcades. The principal façade is built
of "_marbre du pays_," which is not marble or anything like it, but a
very suitable stone for building nevertheless. It might be called
"near-marble" by an enterprising modern contractor, and a fortune made
off it by skilful advertising. It is better, at any rate, than armoured
cement.
The structure rises but two stories above the _rez-de-chaussée_, but is
topped off with an "_attique_" (a word we all recognize even though it
be French) and three great stone _lucarnes_, ornamented with light
open-work _consoles à jour_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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