Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque ProvincesMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
In September (1549?), when the queen and her followers were journeying
from Cauterets to Tarbes, the waters of the Gave overflowed their banks
and destroyed the bridge of Sarrance. The party stopped first at the
Abbaye de Saint Savin, and again at the Monastère de Notre Dame de
Sarrance. Ten days were necessary to repair the bridge which had been
carried away, and time apparently hung heavy on the hands of every one.
To break the ennui of their sojourn in the company of these austere
monks of Sarrance, the royal party sought what amusements they might.
In the morning all met with the Dame Oysille, the eldest of the company,
when they had an hour's reading of the Scriptures. After this there was
a mass; then at ten o'clock they dined; finally each retired to his
room--"_pour ses affaires particulières_," says the old
record--presumably to sleep, though it was early in the day for that. In
the afternoon ("_depuis midi jusques à quatres heures_," ran the old
chronicle) they all assembled in the meadow by the river's bank beneath
the trees, and each, seated at his ease, recounted such salacious
satires and tales as would have added to the fame of Boccaccio. This
procedure went on until the tellers of tales were interrupted by the
coming of the prior who called them to vespers.
These tales or "_contes_," or "_petites histoires_," or whatever one
chooses to call them, free of speech and of incident as was the custom
of the time, were afterwards mothered by the queen of Navarre, and given
to the world as the product of her fertile mind. Judging from their
popularity at that time, and since, the fair lady must have been a
wonderful storyteller.
The gentle slopes of a prairie along the banks of the Gave near by is
the reputed spot where these tales were told,--a spot "where the sun
could not pierce the thick foliage," certainly romantically and
picturesquely endowed. The site is charming, and one can picture the
scene all out again for himself if he is possessed of the least bit of
imaginative sense.
Still following the valley of the Aspe upward, one comes next to Bedous,
really a pretentious little city, but unheard of by conventional
travellers. Everything begins to take on a Spanish hue, and the church,
dating from 1631, is more Spanish than French in its architecture and
all its appointments. All the commercial life of the valley centres
here, and a mixed Franco-Espagnol traffic goes on. It is principally the
trading of cattle, sheep and wool, with an occasional porker or a donkey
sold, or bargained for, on the side. Bedous has been marked out as being
the terminus of a railway line yet to be built. Until the times shall be
propitious for pushing the railway on into Spain the town will remain
simply what it has been for centuries. When that day comes, much of the
charm of the region will be gone. The automobile is no such desecrator
as the railway, let scoffers say what they will.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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