Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque ProvincesMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
Walckenaer's "Géographie des Gauls" says the evolution of the name
Bayonne was from the Basque Lapurdam, "city of thieves," but nothing
to-day about her warm welcome for strangers justifies this, so it were
best forgot. Bayonne in the old days--and to some extent to-day--spoke
intermittently Gascon, Français, Béarnais and Spanish, and it is this
notable blend of peoples and tongues that makes it so charming.
The _Quartier Landais_ was the mother city of Bayonne, the oldest
portion out of which the other faubourgs grew. Within the old walls, and
in the narrow streets, all is mediæval even now, but in the newer
quarters the straight, rectangular lines of streets and sidewalks are,
as the French call them, _à l'Américaine_.
The Pont Mayou at Bayonne is the liveliest, gayest spot in all the
Basque country. It is the virtual centre of this ancient capital.
Bayonne's cathedral is lovely enough when viewed from afar, particularly
the ensemble of its spires with the roof-tops of the town--a sort of
reminiscence of Nuremberg--and this in spite of the fact that Taine in
his description of it called it ugly.
In the olden times, the city had an important Jewish quarter, whose
inhabitants were an overflow of those expelled from Spain and Portugal.
This little city of the Landes became a miniature Frankfort, and had
three synagogues where the rabbis held services in the Spanish tongue.
The phenomenon has disappeared, by a process of evolution and infusion,
and one no more remarks the Jewish type as at all distinct from the
Basque.
An incident happened at Bayonne fort during the Peninsular War which
seems to have been greatly neglected by historians, though Gleig, the
novelist, in "The Subaltern," makes much of it. The English, believing
that peace had been declared, resented an unprovoked French sortie from
Bayonne's citadel on the tenth of April, 1814. This was the last
British fight on French soil, if fight it was. A number of the guards,
including four officers, died of wounds received at this engagement.
The following anonymous verses tell the story well:
"For England here they fell.
Yon sea-like water guards each hero's grave.
Far Pyrenean heights, mindful, attest
That here our bravest and our best
Their supreme proof of love and loyalty gave,
Dying for England well.
"Among those distant heights,
Had many a day the wrathful cannon roared.
Through black ravine and sunny field of Spain
War's headlong torrent rolled amain.
Irun's defile and Bidassoa's ford
Beheld a hundred fights.
"Last, by this sea-like wave,
Threatening the fort our martial lines were drawn.
Fierce broke upon their watch at midnight hour
The swift sortie, the bullets' shower.
Red carnage ceased with slowly wakening dawn.
France keeps the true and brave."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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