Ten or twelve kilometres beyond Saint-Jean-de-Luz is Urrugne and its clock tower. Victor Hugo rhymed it thus: "...Urrugne, Nom rauque dont le nom a la rime répugne," and his words, and the Latin inscription on its face, have served to make this little Basque village celebrated. "Vulnerant omnes, ultima necat." Travellers by diligence in the old days, passing on the "Route Royale" from France to Spain, stopped to gaze at the _Horloge d'Urrugne_, and took the motto as something personal, in view of the supposed dangers of travelling by road. To-day the automobilist and the traveller by train alike, rush through to Hendaye, with never a thought except as to what new form of horror the customs inspection at the frontier will bring forth. Urrugne is worth being better known, albeit it is but a dull little Basque village of a couple of thousand inhabitants, for in addition it has a country inn which is excellent of its kind, if primitive. All around is a delightful, green-grown landscape, from which, however, the vine is absent, the humidity and softness of the climate not being conducive to the growth of the grape. In some respects the country resembles Normandy, and the Basques of these parts, curiously enough, produce cider, of an infinitesimal quantity to be sure, compared to the product of Normandy or Brittany, but enough for the home consumption of those who affect it. CHAPTER XXX THE BIDASSOA AND THE FRONTIER In the western valleys of the Pyrenees, opening out into the Landes bordering upon the Golfe de Gascogne, rises the little river Bidassoa, famous in history and romance. To the Basques its name is Bastanzubi, and its length is but sixty-five kilometres. In the upper valley, in Spanish territory, is Elizondo, the tiny capital of olden times, and three other tiny Spanish towns whose names suggest nothing but an old-world existence. In its last dozen or fifteen kilometres the Bidassoa forms the boundary between France and Spain, and mid-stream--below Hendaye, the last French station on the railway between Paris and Madrid--is the famous Ile des Faisans. All of this is classic ground. Just across the river from Hendaye is Irun, the first station on the Spanish railway line. It offers nothing special in the way of historical monuments, save a fourteenth-century Hôtel de Ville and innumerable old houses. Its characteristics are as much French as Spanish, and its speech the same, when its people don't talk Basque. [Illustration: _Ile des Faisans_] A historic incident of the Ile des Faisans was the famous affair of 1526, when, after the Battle of Pavia, and François Premier had been made prisoner by Charles V, the former was _exchanged_ against his two children as hostages. Three years later the children themselves were redeemed by another _exchange_, this time of much gold and many precious "relics," as one learns from the old chronicles.