Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
The Renaissance château of to-day is a reconstruction of the sixteenth
century, which preserves, however, the great cylindrical towers of a
century earlier. Its architecture is on the whole fantastic, at least as
much so as Chambord, but it is none the less hardy and strong.
Practically it consists of a series of _pavillons_ bound to the great
fifteenth-century donjon by smaller towers and turrets, all slate-capped
and pointed, with machicolations surrounding them, and above that a sort
of roofed and crenelated battlement which passes like a collar around
all the outer wall.
The general effect of the exterior walls is that of a great feudal
stronghold, while from the courtyard the aspect is simply that of a
luxurious Renaissance town house, showing at least how the two styles
can be pleasingly combined.
Crenelated battlements are as old as Pompeii, so it is doubtful if the
feudality of France did much to increase their use or effectiveness.
They were originally of such dimensions as to allow a complete shelter
for an archer standing behind one of the uprights. The contrast to those
of a later day, which, virtually nothing more than a course of
decorative stonework, give no impression of utility, is great, though
here at Ussé they are more pronounced than in many other similar
edifices.
[Illustration: _Château d'Ussé_]
The interior arrangements here give due prominence to a fine staircase,
ornamented with a painting of St. John that is attributed to Michel
Ange.
The Chambre du Roi is hung with ancient embroideries, and there is a
beautiful Renaissance chapel, above the door of which is a
sixteenth-century bas-relief of the Apostles. Most of the other great
rooms which are shown are resplendent in oak-beamed ceilings and massive
chimneypieces, always a distinct feature of Renaissance
château-building, and one which makes modern imitations appear mean and
ugly. To realize this to the full one has only to recall the dining-room
of the pretentious hotel which huddles under the walls of Amboise. In a
photograph it looks like a regal banqueting-hall; but in reality it is
as tawdry as stage scenery, with its imitation wainscoted walls, its
imitation beamed ceiling of three-quarter-inch planks, and its plaster
of Paris fireplace.
Near Ussé is the Château de Rochecotte which recalls the name of a
celebrated chieftain of the Chouans. It belongs to-day, though it is not
their paternal home, to the family of Castellane, a name which to many
is quite as celebrated and perhaps better known.
The château contains a fine collection of Dutch paintings of the
seventeenth century, and in its chapel there is a remarkably beautiful
copy of the Sistine Madonna. The name of Talleyrand is intimately
connected with the occupancy of the château, in pre-revolutionary times,
by Rochecotte.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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