Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
This curious pyramidal structure is like the collegiate church of St.
Ours at Loches, one of those bizarre edifices which defy any special
architectural classification. At Fontevrault the architect played with
his art when he let all the light in this curious "_tour_" enter by the
roof. At the extreme apex of the cone he placed a lantern from which the
light of day filtered down the slope of the vaulting in a weird and
tomblike manner. It is a most surprising effect, but one that is wholly
lost to-day, since the Tour d'Evrault has been turned into the kitchen
for the "_maison de détention_" of which it forms a part.
The nave of the church of the old abbey of Fontevrault has been cut in
two and a part is now used as the dormitory of the prison, but the
choir, the transepts, and the towers remain to suggest the simple and
beautiful style of their age.
In the transepts, behind an iron grille, are buried Henry II., King of
England and Count of Anjou, Éléanore of Guienne, Richard Coeur de Lion,
and Isabeau of Angoulême, wife of Jean-sans-Terre. Four polychromatic
statues, one in wood, the others in stone, lying at length, represent
these four personages so great in English history, and make of
Fontevrault a shrine for pilgrims which ought to be far less ignored
than it is. The cemetery of kings has been shockingly cared for, and the
ludicrous kaleidoscopic decorations of the statues which surmount the
royal tombs are nothing less than a sacrilege. It is needless to say
they are comparatively modern.
At Bourgueil, near Fontevrault, are gathered great crops of _réglisse_,
or licorice. It differs somewhat in appearance from the licorice roots
of one's childhood, but the same qualities exist in it as in the product
of Spain or the Levant, whence indeed most of the commercial licorice
does come. It is as profitable an industry in this part of France as is
the saffron crop of the Gâtinais, and whoever imported the first roots
was a benefactor. At the juncture of the Vienne and the Loire are two
tiny towns which are noted for two widely different reasons.
These two towns are Montsoreau and Candes, the former noted for the
memory of that bloodthirsty woman who gave a plot to Dumas (and some
real facts of history besides), and the other noted for its prunes,
Candes being the chief centre of the industry which produces the
_pruneaux de Tours_.
Descending the Vienne from Chinon, one first comes to Candes, which
dominates the confluence of the Vienne with the Loire from its imposing
position on the top of a hill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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