Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
There is a tale of the Vendean wars, connected with the "Roche-de-Murs"
at the Ponts de Cé, to the effect that a battalion, left here to guard
any attack from across the river, was captured by the Vendeans. Many of
the "_Bleus_" refused to surrender, and threw themselves into the river
beneath their feet. Among these was the wife of an officer, to whom the
Vendeans offered life if she surrendered. This was refused, and
precipitately, with her child, she threw herself into the flood beneath.
On the largest isle, that lying between the Louet and the Loire, is one
vast garden or orchard of cherry-trees, which produce a peculiarly juicy
cherry from which large quantities of _guignolet_, a sort of "cherry
brandy," is made. The Angevins will tell you that this was a well-known
refreshment in the middle ages, and was first made by one of those
monkish orders who were so successful in concocting the subtle liquors
of the commerce of to-day.
It is with real regret that one parts from the Ponts de Cé, with La
Fontaine's couplet on his lips:
"... Ce n'est pas petite gloire
Que d'être pont sur la Loire."
Some one has said that the provinces find nothing to envy in Paris as
far as the transformation of their cities is concerned. This, to a
certain extent, is so, not only in respect to the modernizing of such
grand cities as Lyons, Marseilles, or Lille, but in respect to such
smaller cities as Nantes and Angers, where the improvements, if not on
so magnificent a scale, are at least as momentous to their immediate
environment.
For the most part these second and third class cities are to-day
transformed in exceedingly good taste, and, though many a noble monument
has in the past been sacrificed, to-day the authorities are proceeding
more carefully.
Angers, in spite of its overpowering château and its unique cathedral,
is of a modernity and luxuriousness in its present-day aspect which is
all the more remarkable because of the contrast. Formerly the Angevin
capital, from the days of King John up to a much later time Angers had
the reputation of being a town "_plus sombre et plus maussade_" than any
other in the French provinces. In Shakespeare's "King John" one reads of
"black Angers," and so indeed is its aspect to-day, for its roof-tops
are of slate, while many of the houses are built of that material
entirely. In the olden time many of its streets were cut in the slaty
rock, leaving its sombre surface bare to the light of day. One sees
evidences of all this in the massive walls of the great black-banded
castle of Angers, and, altogether, this magpie colouring is one of the
chief characteristics of this grandly historic town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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